Conman-TC
New Member
Starting a new build with a 2000 379 Pete and want to leave the sleeper on and connect it to a Morgan body. If I take the air ride for the sleeper off and mount it solid will it tear the cab and sleeper apart? Thanks, John.
Conman-TC
New Member
Yes, I want to open the back of the sleeper up as big as possible, and when I join the " box " and the cab together I did not know if flex would be a big problem. Thanks, John.
Bob86ZZ4
Senior Member
I think you do want to securely attach the cab/sleeper to the frame. Then you would want to mount the Morgan box hard to the frame (I think they usually put some wood in between, check how it was mounted to whatever frame it came off of). That should prevent them from rocking around too much. But, you will also want to use an accordian type rubber boot between the sleeper back wall and the box. At least that's how all the ones I've looked at have done it.
i am going to put rubber blocks or some type of fabricated cab mounts on rear of cab. mounts for a pickup truck cab? i have one picture of my gutted sleeper with a dinette booth in it. when i clean it back out in a couple weeks i can post more pictures.
Highway OPie
Advanced Member
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2011
- Messages
- 74
Removing air-ride
Hello Conman:
First, good luck with your project; please keep us posted as to your progress!
To answer your question, yes, the air ride on the rear of the bunk can be removed so it is "solid". This would be the way to go if you are going to provide a walk-through into the Morgan box.
I have a 2003 Pete 379 which I installed a 16' Morgan box. When researching removal of the air ride, I found out the thing to use to rigid mount the bunk to the frame are hockey pucks. A local fabricator says he has done this on several conversions with good results.
As it turned out, The idea of providing a walk-through into the box from the bunk was not implemented. This is because 1> my wife didn't want it done; and 2> when we have our grand-daughters with us, having the bunk not connected to the box provided a "man-cave" area for me to escape to!
Another of my ideas was to take two 63" sleepers, and cut them apart and rejoin them back-to-back, making a sleeper which was approximately 84". I had actually started in this project, had the two sleepers cut apart and joined together (sitting on I-beams for perfect alignment) and was ready to begin the fiberglass work after having the aluminum side rails welded together. This was to be a rigid mount using hockey pucks. I decided that this additional room in the bunk was really not needed, and stopped the project and trashed the two bunks.
I would recommend using an flexible-type rubber boot between the back of your sleeper joining the front of the Morgan box. I had planned on using the aluminum frame from the one sleeper I cut-ff, and the stock Peterbilt rubber boot. Because everything was mounted to the frame, and rigid, this would have worked fine.
As it turned out, I kept the 63" stock sleeper, and I am very happy with my decision. I wanted to keep the traditional look of the tractor area of the conversion, and I am very pleased with the overall look of the vehicle as it turned out.
I am three years into my conversion, and am now working on finishing the interior of the Morgan box. Windows are in, and have started on the insulation. Wiring will follow, and the the wall covering, which I plan on using 1/2" high-grade birch 6 layer plywood.
Hope all this helps.
Speed Gray, K8SG
Grand Rapids, MI
Hello Conman:
First, good luck with your project; please keep us posted as to your progress!
To answer your question, yes, the air ride on the rear of the bunk can be removed so it is "solid". This would be the way to go if you are going to provide a walk-through into the Morgan box.
I have a 2003 Pete 379 which I installed a 16' Morgan box. When researching removal of the air ride, I found out the thing to use to rigid mount the bunk to the frame are hockey pucks. A local fabricator says he has done this on several conversions with good results.
As it turned out, The idea of providing a walk-through into the box from the bunk was not implemented. This is because 1> my wife didn't want it done; and 2> when we have our grand-daughters with us, having the bunk not connected to the box provided a "man-cave" area for me to escape to!
Another of my ideas was to take two 63" sleepers, and cut them apart and rejoin them back-to-back, making a sleeper which was approximately 84". I had actually started in this project, had the two sleepers cut apart and joined together (sitting on I-beams for perfect alignment) and was ready to begin the fiberglass work after having the aluminum side rails welded together. This was to be a rigid mount using hockey pucks. I decided that this additional room in the bunk was really not needed, and stopped the project and trashed the two bunks.
I would recommend using an flexible-type rubber boot between the back of your sleeper joining the front of the Morgan box. I had planned on using the aluminum frame from the one sleeper I cut-ff, and the stock Peterbilt rubber boot. Because everything was mounted to the frame, and rigid, this would have worked fine.
As it turned out, I kept the 63" stock sleeper, and I am very happy with my decision. I wanted to keep the traditional look of the tractor area of the conversion, and I am very pleased with the overall look of the vehicle as it turned out.
I am three years into my conversion, and am now working on finishing the interior of the Morgan box. Windows are in, and have started on the insulation. Wiring will follow, and the the wall covering, which I plan on using 1/2" high-grade birch 6 layer plywood.
Hope all this helps.
Speed Gray, K8SG
Grand Rapids, MI
Conman-TC
New Member
Hi Opie, have you had your rig on the road yet ? Did not know if I would have to put a ping tank on to soften the ride like we have had to on are toters for hauling 5th wheel campers, and is it noisy with the pucks? Thanks, John.
Conman-TC
New Member
Highway OPie
Advanced Member
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2011
- Messages
- 74
Pete Rules!
Hey Conman: Nice truck! And my favorite color, too.
I did not use pucks on my conversion, still have the air-ride bags. The ride is great and I have never had any feeling of it being too hard or too rough. I did drop the front axle, but still run 100 psi in the tires.
How about some more pictures of your project as it progresses?
I am finished with the window installation, and am beginning to insulate the box and then will start the wiring. All is going well with my project; I'm not in any great hurry to finish, and am really enjoying working on it.
Hey Conman: Nice truck! And my favorite color, too.
I did not use pucks on my conversion, still have the air-ride bags. The ride is great and I have never had any feeling of it being too hard or too rough. I did drop the front axle, but still run 100 psi in the tires.
How about some more pictures of your project as it progresses?
I am finished with the window installation, and am beginning to insulate the box and then will start the wiring. All is going well with my project; I'm not in any great hurry to finish, and am really enjoying working on it.
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SHORTS
Member
cab/box mounts
I was looking around under one of the monster custom sleepers and it looked like it was mounted on moryde suspension blocks with a panhard bar to control side to side movement it was mounted independent from the cab.
If I was building a truck, I think that fastening the box directly to the cab,rigid mount and then floating the box on the moryde blocks would probably maximize the ride and minimize structural issues caused by vibration and chassis flex
I was looking around under one of the monster custom sleepers and it looked like it was mounted on moryde suspension blocks with a panhard bar to control side to side movement it was mounted independent from the cab.
If I was building a truck, I think that fastening the box directly to the cab,rigid mount and then floating the box on the moryde blocks would probably maximize the ride and minimize structural issues caused by vibration and chassis flex
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