After revisiting the topic, I am more confused than before. I've taken another hard look at SMI and M&G Air systems. After some back and forth, each agreed that I did not need any special rigging on my MH to attach their systems to a coach. This puts them at the top of my list.
Every toad is gonna need SOME rigging - including base plates and wiring for lighting.
You don't say what Jeep she bought (i have a jeep wrangler / toad).
A couple of things I still don't understand. Why install auxiliary lighting on the toad? Can't the existing lights just be wired up like trailer lights, maybe with some sort of disconnect from the toad's panel? Do most folks also use the charge circuit in the 7-pin to keep up the toad battery too?
the coach (7-pin) wiring needs SOME place to connect to on the jeep/toad.
You have one of 3 choices:
Choice #1:
Use
Magnetic (slap-on) lights and deal w/ routing the wiring in/out of the toad to the 7 pin (coach) connector.
You may need a 4pin to 7pin adapter for some of those magnetic lights.
They make the lights in wireless now too
Choice #2:
Add additional bulbs (wiring and diodes) inside the Jeep/Toad's factory tail lights.
or SPLICE into the factor tail light (again, wiring, diodes & plugs) - with a kit
HERE
the wiring will give you a plug (at the front of the jeep / toad) which will provide you with a connection point to the 7-pin (coach) connector.
OPTION 3 (i did this one):
Use a factory supplied harness, which plugs in behind the glove box (jeep wranglers). The Factory harness comes w/ a 7-pin (coach) cord/connection & puts a plug behind the jeep wrangler grill.
I modified the jeep harness a little (adapting it to a 6 pin round connector) and moved it UNDER the bumper (i can't leave well enough alone).
I don't understand why the toad air brake manufacturers don't make a brake system that utilizes the truck air system better, allowing the trailer supply line to pressurize the toad system's break away pressure tank, so the system can just break away and respond to the drop in pressure like a semi-trailer does, rather than having an electronic break away switch? I know the toad doesn't have spring brakes, but the break away systems are supposed to use an air reservoir to engage the brakes.
this is EXACTLY why i didn't go air over hydraulic (from coach to jeep/toad), and trust me i wanted air actuated brakes, but i didn't want to have to add an air tank etc.
the brake away system for the "electric" boxes (that sit on the drivers floor) have a much LESS complicated break away system, 2 wire switch, that connects to the brake buddy (or patriot etc) box, if the (break away) cable/switch is pulled the circuit is closed and the brakes on the toad activate....it was SIMPLE to wire....AND it's easy to remove (when/if i sell the toad).
Lastly, regarding base plates and towing bars, I contacted my two closest Blue Ox dealers. One marked up each component $100.00 over retail and then needs 5 hours at $115.00 per hour to install it. The other, just quoted retail price, but wanted 9 hours at $155.00 per hour. I'm thinking a little youtube and a lot of sweating and cursing and I'll get it done myself.
I must be really missing something. If you've got the time, please set me straight. Thanks
I installed my own base plates, i think i had to drill 2 holes - and it might have taken me 1/2 a day to install the base plates (i went slow)...and now knowing what i know i could probably do it in 2 hours.
I found a Blue Ox (aluminum) Aventa tow-bar & base plates for my Jeep Wrangler for 250 bucks on craigslist. I just picked up a roadmaster tow-bar for a friend on craigslist (no baseplates) for 250 bucks, take your time, search craigslist & eBay.
even if you have to buy the baseplates new, and get the tow-bar off of craigslist you'll be LOTS of money ahead.
