Ski Bum Truck V2.0, F450 Rough Road RV

must be why the MFG's don't insulate there either (you can see the strips on our coach on humid mornings).

Some places are probably left better un-insulated or stuffed with pink stuff (vapor barrier / moisture may be of concern)....maybe sheets of blue foam/foil backed foam core might be better/easier.

I worry that foam stuff expands so much that it could push things out of joint.

Be interesting to hear about the on demand heater - 60k BTU's is a lot. id be curious about the propane consumption, does it have an electric option?

Plumber friend of mine hates the (residential) on demand - he thinks they consume more GAS - since they have to have such strong heaters and they need to fire up (waisting water) before you see hot water at the tap.

Our 10g is more than enough for several people (back to back / boat showers) and its consumption for propane is minimal (we use the electric source when on shore power, so consumption of gas is further reduced).

Yeah I think they will be left alone. Not much I can do, no real access to the top and bottom of them.

On the HWH, I am assuming its 60k is at full flow, it turns on at .5GPM, and generally its rated per hour, so 60k btus and hour. Propane is 21,600 per pound. So in theory you could eat 2/3 of a bbq tank in an hour. No electrci options as it doesnt have a tank.

I will nearly never be on shore power anyway.

I went on demand for a couple reasons. We camp a lot in freezing, so heating a tank to do dishes etc sucks when i only need a gallon really. (no interior shower on this truck either) So really I will only need a little water here and there, I think it should work well for that. And I got a killer deal, $202 for a unit that goes for $700 usually.

Its really exciting to look at :)
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This is normal for us.
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Just for clarity, here is the wall section. I am taking about filling the hollow area.

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My door showed up, but the UPS guys had their way with it :mad:, edges are good and dented in a few places....
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Picked up a used inverter/charger as well, only 1250 watts, but should run a microwave (i hope!). Charges at 55 amps, a bit slow there as well, but the price was right. Came with a 200A Blue sea breaker too.
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Your math is a little off on the propane consumption. You are correct at 21600 btu per pound, which means your unit will burn about 2.8# of propane per hour. So a ten minute shower (if you had one) would use about a half pound of propane. Keep in mind that large a burner should really be on a larger tank like a 30# or 40# cylinder. It will work fine when full, but when you get lower like 1/4 tank or so that little tank can't produce vapor fast enough for a large burner. For your minimal usage, you shouldn't have a problem. Also, for safety, make sure you use the correct vent assembly for the make/model/size of your unit, do not homebuild a vent.
 
Your math is a little off on the propane consumption. You are correct at 21600 btu per pound, which means your unit will burn about 2.8# of propane per hour. So a ten minute shower (if you had one) would use about a half pound of propane. Keep in mind that large a burner should really be on a larger tank like a 30# or 40# cylinder. It will work fine when full, but when you get lower like 1/4 tank or so that little tank can't produce vapor fast enough for a large burner. For your minimal usage, you shouldn't have a problem. Also, for safety, make sure you use the correct vent assembly for the make/model/size of your unit, do not homebuild a vent.

Thanks for the math :)

I see what your saying about the smaller tank. I plan to have two 20# (standard BBQ for ease of swap out) tanks I guess I could always flip to the full one if its giving me issues.

I did but the correct vent assembly for it. $40 on amazon, no too bad.

Anyone used this water heater before? They have a "smart panel" for it that allows you to adjust water temp and whatnot, but not sure I want to spend the $$ on it. Can always add it later on.

In other news, my cab top box gasket showed up, as did my custom windows! I dropped the headliner of the truck.... Mouse nest. Ugh. Spent a day cleaning that mess up. Time to break the back window and get to work.
 
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Whats in the crate?

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Windows!!! Not fancy flush pane ones, but they are double pane insulated ones, they latch and slide very nicely, I am very happy.

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Picked up a used inverter/charger as well, only 1250 watts, but should run a microwave (i hope!). Charges at 55 amps, a bit slow there as well, but the price was right. Came with a 200A Blue sea breaker too.

Love my BlueSea Magnetic Breaker (have one on my f350 for a 3rd battery), trick stuff!

where'd you get the inverter? how much did you pay (if you don't mind)?
we could use one and I'm trying to decide what to do.

long story but our coach only has a small one (under one of the couches) and its never worked - we don't necessarily need one, we usually just run the gen (for air conditioning) anyway.

does anyone know how loud these (larger) units are? can I put it in the coach?
 
Love my BlueSea Magnetic Breaker (have one on my f350 for a 3rd battery), trick stuff!

where'd you get the inverter? how much did you pay (if you don't mind)?
we could use one and I'm trying to decide what to do.

long story but our coach only has a small one (under one of the couches) and its never worked - we don't necessarily need one, we usually just run the gen (for air conditioning) anyway.

does anyone know how loud these (larger) units are? can I put it in the coach?

I got it used on CL, paid $250 with the breaker. Its a bit on the small side though. The fan is basically as loud as a large computer fan. Yes you can put it inside, wont hurt anything.

This one is an inverter charger though, so if you only need the inverter side of things there are lots of options. I was going to use an AIMSpower one, 300W pure sine wave, with a 6k surge, but this one was half the price.
 
I got it used on CL, paid $250 with the breaker. Its a bit on the small side though. The fan is basically as loud as a large computer fan. Yes you can put it inside, wont hurt anything.

This one is an inverter charger though, so if you only need the inverter side of things there are lots of options. I was going to use an AIMSpower one, 300W pure sine wave, with a 6k surge, but this one was half the price.

I would likely turn off the charger (since most permit that via remote/display), I have a good converter/charger in my Progressive Dynamics (PD9260C) (60w)
 
I would likely turn off the charger (since most permit that via remote/display), I have a good converter/charger in my Progressive Dynamics (PD9260C) (60w)

Why not just go straight inverter then? Save some complications and $$
 
Why not just go straight inverter then? Save some complications and $$

thats my initial direction / consideration but most of what I've looked at 1200-2000 watts has a charger in it too.

I like the Xantrex PROsine 1800 - because it has a remote-able display and I can turn the charger off.
 
done right I'd put enough power behind it to run an air conditioner (4kw) - but thats not necessary really - since its just the wife and I now (dog is gone too) :(

really (driving) the only reason we ran the gen was for Air Conditioning for our Old English Sheep Dog. I dry camp at several motorsports events (NASA, MotoGP, Sports Car Vintage, College football/tailgate) but thats usually w/ my beer swilling guy friends - so there is no need for AC current/power during the day (if I had some solar I probably wouldn't run the generator at all on race weekends)...since I really only run it to recover the batteries.
 
done right I'd put enough power behind it to run an air conditioner (4kw) - but thats not necessary really - since its just the wife and I now (dog is gone too) :(

really (driving) the only reason we ran the gen was for Air Conditioning for our Old English Sheep Dog. I dry camp at several motorsports events (NASA, MotoGP, Sports Car Vintage, College football/tailgate) but thats usually w/ my beer swilling guy friends - so there is no need for AC current/power during the day (if I had some solar I probably wouldn't run the generator at all on race weekends)...since I really only run it to recover the batteries.

Yeah you need a lot of batteries to run a 4kw inverter....

$kw inverter charger, 15k spike https://www.amazon.com/Power-PICOGL...TF8&qid=1483641489&sr=8-8&keywords=aims+power

or modified sine for cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/AIMS-Power-P...TF8&qid=1483641489&sr=8-9&keywords=aims+power

Your batteries will not appreciate that unless you have a huge bank though.
 
its not necessary - and why we won't do it.

most coaches are designed/build with at least one if not dual 4kw converters. Going down the road w/ the engine running the batteries are really not needed per se - the engine keeps the batteries recovered. Larger coaches often have 4 or more alternators.

many coaches today are built w/ (less expensive) residential refrigerators - so they need the higher wattage inverters and batteries. If we were full timers I could see that, but we like and prefer our low (electrical) consumption propane / electrical fridge - has plenty of room even for a multi week excursion.
 
Yeah im used to little RV's, mine has a 6kw in it, but it was an office. They just ran everything off the generator for the most part.

New truck has dual alternators, but I am putting 500AH of batteries in it too, still takes a fair bit of charge time.
 
I also have an (04) F350 pickup -

in DUEL alternator (ambulance configs) upper/primary alternator is higher output 135 amp vs the lower (backup/secondary) alternator thats rated for 120 amps. On single alternator truck the (only) alternator is 110a.

I replace my single 110a alternator w/ a single 135a - mostly for the electrical load I create and added a 3rd battery on the frame rail (using the e350 Van battery tray).

My point is, you might have the option of using the VAN battery trays to mount batteries to the frame (under the passenger compartment), and using higher output alternators
 
I also have an (04) F350 pickup -

in DUEL alternator (ambulance configs) upper/primary alternator is higher output 135 amp vs the lower (backup/secondary) alternator thats rated for 120 amps. On single alternator truck the (only) alternator is 110a.

I replace my single 110a alternator w/ a single 135a - mostly for the electrical load I create and added a 3rd battery on the frame rail (using the e350 Van battery tray).

My point is, you might have the option of using the VAN battery trays to mount batteries to the frame (under the passenger compartment), and using higher output alternators

Yeah from the digging i did, mine is dual 140A alternators. (may be a 140 and a 120 I dont remember....)

I want to keep the batteries in the living area (under the bed) where they will stay a little warmer. There is a ton of room under the box for other stuff though!
 

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