"Not For Hire" vs "RV" question

[Doc Weaver]

I just went through the same hell here in Ohio. I finally contacted The Clerk of Courts in Columbus and here is what she told me to do.
1)sign an affidavit stating:
a) the truck would only be used for recreational use
b) it did not have a commercial 5th wheel
c) it had separate hvac, cool storage, cooking and a bed
2) get retitled as motorhome
3) register and tag it as a moterhome
4) "not for hire" and "private RV" stickers on the doors don't change status of vehicle, but are a good idea as a courtesy to DOT.

Right or wrong, this was my official direction. I haven't stopped at a weigh station since and so far so good.

Doc Weaver

 

[Bob86ZZ4]

Doc, I think he was asking more about a tractor tho, wasn't he? Maybe I misunderstood. For sure you should be set doing it the way they told you. But I think it would be pretty hard to setup a tractor with the required equipment to make it a r/v. Correct about the door lettering "Recreational Vehicle, not for hire." That doesn't do anything legally. Just tells weigh stations you aren't commercial and don't need to weigh. A commercial vehicle inspector could still stop and tag you if you were pulling a trailer with sponsor or ad graphics on the outside.

 

[HD_RIDER]

But I think it would be pretty hard to setup a tractor with the required equipment to make it a r/v.

Where you live determines how difficult it can be; in Indiana I had my Volvo "converted" to meet the requirements in less than a day. An inspection by LEA took about 20 minutes, mostly spent on the computer in the squad car. Another half hour or so at the license branch, and the legal conversion to "RV" was complete. It took a lot longer securing insurance, as there is only a few companies that are currently insuring these conversions. The agent asked more questions than either the law officer or the license branch, and was much better informed as well (in my opinion).

There's extensive information relating to all this at the "Escapees" forum, lots of tips and advice available for every detail involved in these conversions. You will be amazed at the number of tractors that are now classified as R/V or motorhome.
Jess

 

[Bob86ZZ4]

Here's MN law about recreational vehicles:

Subd. 17.Motor home.(a) "Motor home" means a recreational vehicle designed to provide temporary living quarters. The motor home has a living unit built into as an integral part of, or permanently attached to the chassis of, a motor vehicle or van.

(b) A motor home must contain permanently installed, independent, life-support systems that meet the American National Standards Institute standard number A119.2 for recreational vehicles and provide at least four of the following facilities, two of which must be from the systems listed in clauses (1), (5), and (6): (1) a cooking facility with liquid propane gas supply, (2) a refrigerator, (3) a self-contained toilet or a toilet connected to a plumbing system with a connection for external water disposal, (4) a heating or air conditioning system separate from the motor vehicle engine, (5) a potable water supply system including a sink with a faucet either self-contained or with connections for an external source, and (6) a separate 110-125 volts electrical power supply.

(c) For purposes of this subdivision, "permanently installed" means built into or attached as an integral part of a chassis or van, and designed not to be removed except for repair or replacement. A system that is readily removable or held in place by clamps or tie-downs is not permanently installed.

(d) Motor homes include a:

(1) type A motor home, which is a raw chassis upon which is built a driver's compartment and an entire body that provides temporary living quarters as described in paragraph (b);

(2) type B motor home, which is a van that conforms to the description in paragraph (b) and has been completed or altered by a final-stage manufacturer; and

(3) type C motor home, which is an incomplete vehicle upon which is permanently attached a body designed to provide temporary living quarters as described in paragraph (b).

(e) A motor vehicle with a slip-in camper or other removable equipment that is mounted into or on a motor vehicle is not a motor home, is not a recreational vehicle, and must not be registered as a recreational vehicle under section 168.013.



Looks to me like you could probably get a tractor to pass. You need 2 of the requirements under 1,5, and 6. I'd take 5 and 6 there. Wouldn't be too hard to build in a sink in a tractor. They don't say how big the tanks have to be. Number 2 (refridgerator) can be a small dorm type that plugs into the power provided by #6. 6 isn't hard, tons of tractors have a.p.u.'s (auxilary power unit) now for cab climate control when not running the main engine. That leaves 4 which would be hooked to the a.p.u. That looks like the easiest way to get a semi tractor to pass for an r/v in MN. I'm guessing MN has about the most strict laws on this stuff, if they're in line with all their other laws. Maybe CA is worse?

 

[Doc Weaver]

Originally posted by Bob86ZZ4:
Doc, I think he was asking more about a tractor tho, wasn't he?

I think you are right, but with the "gray area" of DOT/state rules, I thought I would just put my entire process down. There was one step that confused me as I am a novice to truck conversion. b) it did not have a commercial 5th wheel. b) How can a toterhome not have a 5th wheel?

Doc Weaver

 

[HD_RIDER]

Most of those that have done the conversions have also replaced the commercial fifth wheel with a more "camper friendly" air-ride hitch. Some have retained the commercial hitch, but added a different pin box (such as "Fifth air-borne") that will absorb the shocks that can cause damage in time. When a heavy 5'th wheel trailer is hitched to a lighter truck, any bouncing, shocks, etc. is transmitted to the rear suspension of the towing vehicle. A class 7 or 8 HDT will not absorb these energies, putting all the strain on the pin box and trailer frame.

Unless you have a logging tractor, you won't have any side to side rocking either, again causing extra stress to be absorbed by the trailer frame. Even uneven terrain in campgrounds will present these stresses, so this should be on your list of things to do if you're planning such a conversion. Some believe that removing the commercial hitch makes them appear "less commercial", but that's personal opinion for the most part. Some states may include this in their considerations for conversions, but that isn't usually a major point. Some commercial hitches must be altered (grease grooves welded up) to prevent damage to the camper pin boxes, while other brands will work without trouble.

I am still using my commercial hitch, but I'm not logging many miles yet, either. As long as it's sitting in my drive or at a local campground 50 weeks out of the year, changing it remains on my "things to do" list for now. If we are able to travel more in a few years, then it will be a requirement.

There has been a lot of discussion about this here.

Jess

 

[Doc Weaver]

Well explained

thank you
Doc Weaver

 

[geofkaye]

....Ohio has a problem with hireing DMV personel.....the number one thing to consider in hireing an DMV employee is the ability to read and understand what they have read...something that is skipped over in the course of hireing in Ohio......our state slogan is "

 

[geofkaye]

....Ohio has a problem with hiring DMV personnel.....the number one thing to consider in hiring an DMV employee is the ability to read and understand what they have read...something that is skipped over in the course of hiring in Ohio......our state slogan is " HUH".....and it is catching on the state level......I got that remark from my close friend in the Vehicle Enforcement Department of ODOT....geofkaye