Conversion I saw listed on Ebay

[kblackav8or]

Listed on EBAY. Item number: 2485050834
Sort of interesting. I like the truck but wonder about leaving the sleeper on. Doesn't mention who built it either. Price isn't too bad I suppose.

 

[madbrit]

This is about the third time it has been on Ebay and not sold. Has a very long overhang and is too long to haul a big trailer without going over the "overall length" laws. Will need that special California license to drive if you are from there as it is over 40ft and an RV.

Personally I would not leave the sleeper section in but build one from a day cab or one that could have the sleeper removed. Building the body over the top of the cab would also has the benefit of allowing more driver headroom and the ability to stand up and walk back rather than crouch as one climbs through the hole into the rear body. The sleeper seems to be a waste of space, it is not even equipped with windows for extra passengers, which I have seen done.

Not sure how they have the cab to body join done, but it has to be very flexible. The further back done the chassis, the more cab to body movement.

When I started to construct mine, I was told that if one uses a day cab and basically attaches the cab to the front of the body, one can solidly mount the two parts together. This means removing the rear cab mount and running beams from under the cab back under the body instead. The cab front mounts are rubber doughnuts on my truck and they should be sufficient to support it. So far I haven't joined the two parts together due to the fact that the RV systems are more important at this time, and also I have not decided whether to go over the roof or not. I was considering using a "mid-roof" extension that would give me about 12" extra head room in the cab and take it right back to the body. We will see when we get to that point. So if any of you guys know where there is a 12" roof extension for a '94 FLD 120, especially if it goes back into the sleeper, do let me know. Thanks.

Peter.

 

[Warpath-TC]

This is a Easter Conversion and I am sorry, but it is total garbage! They take a travel trailer and slap it on a truck chassis. The structure on these travel trailers is sparse at best to save weight. Interiors are fake everything again to save weight and they are just not going to hold up to what a truck chassis is going to offer.

Also being a double axle that is setup for 40,000 lbs. it is going to ride rough. You won't have cabinets on the walls after a years worth of use.

Peter I agree with you on removing the sleepers on conversions. You can go with a condo and cut it back take advantage of the standup walk through, but to put seats in a sleeper just doesn't work. (been there done that) Passengers are going to want to be entertained while you travel, specially on long distances. So get them in the back where the TV, stereo, food, ect.. is. It sounds great to have seats in a sleeper, but it is dark, usually no one puts big enough side windows in, and they can't see forward anyway, and if they are prone to motion sickness, forget about it.

Bill

 

[Guest]

I have seen several conversions where the cab is not solidly connected to the conversion box. On some of the conversions on large class 8 chassis the air suspension on the cab was still active.

They use a accordian type boot that is probably 4 inches deep. This allows for the movement between the cab and the box.

 

[madbrit]

True, one can do it, but the amount of clearance for that full condo-cab needs when on air suspension is a waste of space. I spoke recently to a guy who was having to put limiters on the suspension to stop the top hitting the RV body. He said he would not do it that way again. He said the standard 4" boot was not enough.

If you want the cab-over type body like Showhauler, etc, and want to be able to stand up and walk back, you have to have the body firmly attached otherwise you can't cut through the roof and give you the stand up space.

Peter.

 

[Oakland Mike]

I like this discussion.

I have an International 9400 with Pro sleeper and was planning on putting a 24ft box on. I don't see the necessity for a large amout of clearnace between the back of the sleeper and the front of the van box. Can someone enlighten me? What exactly is the problem? The cab on air ride doesn't seem to move that much to cause any interference? or are you talking about an RV body that hangs over the top of a day cab?

thanks,
Mike

willing to learn.

 

[Warpath-TC]

There is no need for the air cab. The air cab is most useful when you are running light and the road is rough. Once you build your motorhome and load it up, you wont need the air cab to calm the road down. If you lock up the cab and then bolt the motorhome box to the cab, you have a solid unit and no chance for trouble inbetween the cab and box where the boot is.

The only guys I know that are blowing the top off a day cab into the overhang is Haulmark. But the crazy thing is they leave the airride on the cab. I think that leaves a lot of chance for water trouble with the roof of the cab being open.

A month ago or so a couple of different Haulmark employees went into the link section and added a new link to their new website. The funny thing is that they all put in a bogus URL.

Here is a link a buddy of mine sent me on a Kingsley walk through tour. (Only click this link if you have high speed internet connection)

http://www.bigeasy.tv/kingsley.html

 

[vapoppa]

bill, can you direct guys with questions to my coach? it's a kingsley and i wanted the standup walk-through on mine, so when i did mine nobody but kingsley was doing that kind of rig so--- anyway mine {the coach} cab is solid to the chassis and so is the coach body. the way it's connected i can't believe it'll ever come loose. it's got over 24,000 miles on it now and that's the least of my worries. if anyone to talk to me about this i'll be glad to answer any questions i have answers to. later--- mase

 

[Oakland Mike]

I appreciate any input before I get started on this project. I guess I can post more questions in the 'Building Your Own' forum.

Mase, I will be sending you an email soon, any help you can lend is greatly appreciated.

What you guys are telling me makes sense. My 'vision' is to have something that looks like the maroon colored rig that is the first picture on the showhauler site.

thanks again,
Mike

 

[KAYE RIVERCITY]

....take a look at large Fire Department Vehicles-where the cab is independant of the body-"taskforce unites"-there is about a 3-4 inch movement between the cab and the body section....shouldn't hurt if there was a "loose" boot...geof

 

[kblackav8or]

I sort of suspected that converstion wasn't all that desireable. Keeps coming back.

 

[mxracin]

I have a 30' Haulmark on a Columbia chassis. It's true that they leave the air ride in, but to be honest I have not observed more than an inch of movement between the cab and the box, well within the limits of the boot. We race MX, and many of our pit areas are on very rough, uneven ground, often accessed by less than smooth roads. I have watched closely as my son drove over one of the roughest access roads I've seen, and the movement was very slight up and down, a bit more pronounced side to side.

We have 7,000 miles this season, and haven't observed any water intrusion. The seal they use seems to be more than adequate for the movement. Time will tell. Renegade also leaves the air ride in, but they put a travel limiter on it.