Bart - Frame Build Photos

JoeHDVoyager

Advanced Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2002
Messages
40
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
I've posted four photos of the bed frame being built on Bart. The batteries are disconnected; the ECM is unhooked, and the steel is being gounded before the welding takes place. (I'd post more photos; but the site says I've used up all my space in my folder\album.) Joe

1998 Volvo VNL64T610 N14Cummins
 
Hi Joe, It looks great. Wish I was doing mine. We need more pics as you go. If you want, use my login space for them. "Jack Mayer"

Jack Mayer
F550 Centurion Conversion
36' Newmar Kountry Star
 
I'm posting a couple more pictures of the top of the bed tonight. Bill gave me some more space, but I'll keep your offer in mind. Thanks - Joe

1998 Volvo VNL64T610 N14Cummins
 
Looks like BART will carry a battleship when finished Joe. IM sure they are careful when welding on the frame, Heating the frame can remove the temper from the steel. I know that sounds silly, but believe me, it can crystalize the steel and make it weaker.

It doesn't look like they put a rubber strip between the bed frame and the frame rails. I would spray that gap areas with primer, then try to seal it with spray can rubberized undercoating. Messy, but it will really deaden sound and prevent rust. Keep those pictures coming!!

onezman

http://onezman.tripod.com/onezmans.conversions
 
Hello, Onezman. The bed will be unbolted and lifted off for the finish welding and box build. At that time, we will undercoat it all. Thanks - Joe

1998 Volvo VNL64T610 N14Cummins
 
Bill moved all my photos over into a gallery. Click on galleries and select my user name to see all the shots. More to follow on Friday. Joe

1998 Volvo VNL64T610 N14Cummins
 
That look's like a pretty heavy steel plate Joe. Do you know how much it weighs? Do you have an estimate of the completed bed weight including the hitch? Looks like it'll be plenty to give you excellent traction on all surfaces when bobtailing.

onezman

http://onezman.tripod.com/onezmans.conversions
 
onezman - The VNL610 I bought from you weighed 17,920 pounds when it was put in service. The front axle (with that heavy Cummins N14 engine) weighs 10,780 pounds. The rear axles wrighed in at 7,140 pounds. With the front rear axle pulled for the conversion, I'm probably under 7,000 pounds on the rear, single axle. The deck plate and sides are being made out of 3/8" steel. The rear, with the wrap-around angles will be made out of 1/2" steel. We figure the bed will weigh something over 3,000 pounds. So, 7,000 + 3,000 + 5,000 max pin weight -- I'm still okay on max weight on the axle at 15,000 pounds. Joe

1998 Volvo VNL64T610 N14Cummins
 
Being overweight is never a concern Joe. I was just curious, because your bed appear to be by far the heaviest I have ever seen.

FYI, I did weigh one conversions exactly like yours. As I recall, (not sure) it weighed 15,600. I can't locate that weigh slip, but seems like about 5,100 on the rear axle. Don't know how much fuel was on it at the factory, but that number seems heavy. No RVer will ever approach GVWR or GCVWR when RVing. When registered as a motorhome, you won't be stopping at any scales anyway.

onezman

http://onezman.tripod.com/onezmans.conversions
 
Larry - This may seem like a dumb question; but here goes -- Since I'm building this truck bed out of 3/8" steel why do I have to worry about priming and undercoating it? Yes, there will be rust - but it won't rust through, or even begin to compromise anything in our lifetime - so is there something I'm not thinking of here? (I plan on undercoating it; but it seems to be a nice-to-do thing rather than a necessary item.) Thanks, Joe

1998 Volvo VNL64T610 N14Cummins
 
That's a good question Joe. You're right, nothing under the bed will ever rust enough to hurt anything in your lifetime except maybe bolts and nuts.

I was recalling my MDT days. I had a bed built out of steel much lighter than you are using. In that MDT I could hear rocks from the tires being thrown up against the metal bed. That's when I decided to undercoat it. You won't hear that in BART due to heaver steel, and better sound proofing in your Volvo.

I would have the exposed outer sides and side boxes painted ASAP though, because unpainted, they will rust unbelievably fast. You don't want to paint it a month later and paint over rust. Thats what I did, and the rust started coming through the paint in less than a year. Same thing applies to the top of the bed too unless you are going to use Rhino Lining or something like that.

Larry

http://onezman.tripod.com/onezmans.conversions
 
So, Joe, when do we get to see some more pics?? How did your service work go?

Jack Mayer
F550 Centurion Conversion
36' Newmar Kountry Star
 
Hello, Larry & Jack -
Larry - Yes, I will Rhino Line the top down to the edge of the 45○ angle break on the sides. I've posted a picture that shows that, I think.

Jack - The service is ongoing. I had them take an oil sample which I will send in just to check on the health of the engine guts. They also checked and set the DCA level in the coolant. I had them run a complete printout on the engine and reset some of the values to better suite my use. They also did a complete lube of all the grease zerks - figured I'd better get that done before the bed went on the frame for good. I also had them check the clutch linkage and clutch brake. They changed the synthetic fluids in the rear end and transmission. On Monday they will check the alignment of the front and rear axles and make sure the bobtail proportioning valve is okay for single axle use. Then, I should be ready to go. I've posted another picture. Right now, Kevin, my builder is waiting for the doors to arrive. He'll build in the boxes once the doors arrive. He's making the doors out of 1/8" steel. I'll keep you posted. Joe

1998 Volvo VNL64T610 N14Cummins
 
Hey Joe (as we say down south),

That's an interesting box. Will there be room for the trailer to clear if you are on a sharp uphill turn, such as going across a median to make a U turn when the new lane is higher than the old lane? How close is the "box" to the pin?

Also, how high is the deck of the bed from the ground? I don't think you have said. I was thinking of raising my ATV storage area up about 8" or so off the rest of the deck to give me more stogage space in the front boxes. Plus maybe a space for some spare rubber in the center area over the frame. Granted, that means a higher loading height, but an ATV easily goes up/down STEEP things.Why didn't you build your motorcycle area up some for additional storage underneath, then taper the deck down to the hitch area? Or did you think it was just too high for a bike? Thanks, Jack

Jack Mayer
F550 Centurion Conversion
36' Newmar Kountry Star
 
Hello, Jack - The box on top of the bed is about 8" tall (really haven't measured it). But, I'm not worried about clearance in a tight turn. I'll just use the air slider and move the hitch all the way back on the bed, fill the air bags on the hitch and shouldn't have any clearance problems. My bed will be approximately 43" off the ground. I didn't want to build the ToyTrax motorcycle hauler up for several reasons - the most important being that the boss wants a window in the back of the sleeper cab. Plus I may be adding a closet behind the lift at a later date. I've posted a couple of more pictures in my photo gallery showing the size of the box doors and steps. I think I'll have enough storage - for now anyway. Joe

1998 Volvo VNL64T610 N14Cummins
 
Posted a few more photos this evening. Hope to have the bed done and on the way to the paint shop sometime next week. Joe

1998 Volvo VNL64T610 N14Cummins
 
Joe-
That is going to be one very TRICK bed once it's done and has a nice coat of paint, plus the other details you've mentioned. Can't wait to see the finished product!
 
Joe,

Keep the build pictures coming, really enjoy them.

Gene

'96' Dodge 3500, 5-speed, 3.54 LSD, Ext. Cab, 205,000 plus miles, K&N RE-0880 air filter, Jannety heat shield, TST #10 plate slid forward 1/8", AFC spring kit, 16 cm exhaust housing, Jardine 4" exhaust w/5" stainless steel tip, South Bend Clutch, SPA digital EGT and boost gauge, relay controlled back-up alarm and rear facing halogen tractor flood lights, air horns, bed liner, Tonnou cover, Geno's manual trans. filter, brite box. Dyno run 1-27-02; 375.6 hp and 798.3 ft. lb. torque at the rear wheels.
 
Just added a few more shots of Bart. We got the bed on and I've now taken the truck to the Rhino-Lining shop. Goes to the paint shop on Wednesday. $620 for the Rhino job! Ouch! Joe

1998 Volvo VNL64T610 N14Cummins
 
Joe, you proved me right! That is one very trick bed NOW that it's done and ready for paint. Keep the pix coming! BART is one nasty-looking hauler!
 

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