Ski Bum Truck V2.0, F450 Rough Road RV

[Java230]

I have been half searching for a replacement for our Ski Bum Mobile V1.0 , I love the truck, but the long overhang and fiberglass construction limit me a bit. I had gotten a quote from Tri Van for an all aluminum body for an F450/550, and was keeping an eye out for cab chassis to com up cheap on CL.

Then I found this truck, Nearly the same body I had a quote for, on a 2008 F450 4x4 frame, which had been stretched 36" to allow for nearly no overhang. It was built as a chase truck for a UTV racing team. I wasn't really ready to pull the trigger for a new truck, but this was too good to pass up. Deal was struck and the truck headed to my driveway.

About the truck, Its on its second motor, the first owner towed horses with it, she attempted to drive it home after the CEL came on, #8 injector had failed, rod ventilated block. PO bought it, had a local shop drop a long block in and used it to go to Vegas for races a couple times. Then it sat, this is good and bad, it has ~4k miles on the new engine, but it leaks. A fair bit. Oil pan, valve covers and #6 injector seal. And the dreaded flex joints in the up pipe. Not the end of the world, but a lot of stuff to remove to get to the problem areas. It seems most procedures on these new trucks is cab off or trans out. Fun.


Everyone home in the driveway, I need a bigger driveway for this many large trucks...

The box is a bare shell.The cabover is 4' tall. Very high interior roof. First order of business is the roof, two vents were framed in, and covered over with plywood and Plexiglas. They leak. So two Maxxfans were ordered and have arrived!

Maxxfans and sealant, first of many parts deliveries.

Continued in next post

 

[Java230]

The back is insulated barn doors. They will be staying. One will be for exterior storage, the other can be opened to the end of the bed if its used in summer. Four 6V 250Ah AGM batteries can be seen here too.

Design

Condensed version of our current layout. I think it works pretty well. Toilet will just have a curtain, leave a bit more space at the door. Cabover bed for the kiddo, back bed for us, fixed dinette. Counter space is limited, but will have a fold out over the crawl through, and is across from the dinette table that can be used as well. Small bar sink, three burner RV cooktop, and the space below used for a marine fridge. Exterior storage for skis, other tall stuff at the back. Still debating on propane tank placement, I am thinking two BBQ style tanks on a swing out on the drivers rear.

Plans

First order of business is getting the crawl through, windows and doors framed and cut. The crawl through is going to be a challenge, I have some thinking and blue taping to do still, but it should be doable. Accordion seal will be used there. If anyone has done this I am all ears.

Once the framing is done I will have the entire thing spray foamed. I am still debating on ceiling thickness if anyone has input. Walls will be 1 3/4" foam with 1/4" plywood interior skin. Spray foam will be a big $$ item, but I fell it will be worth it in the long run.

Then its on to interior finishes. Dinette and vertical walls I am thinking will be small steel tubing with a thin plywood skin. Maximizes interior spaces of the compartments that way.

I am leaning towards doing EGR and DPF delete stuff to the engine while I am in there, but it adds a good budget hit. It may be a couple years down the road. Lift is a ways off too, but for most of what we do it should be ok for awhile. FS roads and snow/ice covered roads to ski areas. It has brand new tires that I wouldn't mind using up either.

This will be a very slow build. I am very budget limited, so it will be plugging away a bit at a time as budget allows. I will need to sell the RV come spring, and would like to have this one done shortly after, but I think that may be a lofty goal.

 

[bushpilot-TC]

instead of 2 fans - id put an Air Conditoner (w/ heat coil) in one of those roof holes.

if no air conditioner plans then at least before you spray foam it run some 115vac/15 or 20a wiring or at a minimum some plastic conduit to the vents holes (for the next owner) and for some overhead lighting....Itll make it easier to sell later.

Interior #1 seems problematic to me - I'd want to be able to slide long items all the way thru to the "kitchen"/Interior and the bed position prevents that.

Also - I wouldn't want my bedroom near the door....too much chance of dirt infiltration into the bedroom & entering thru the bedroom is great (either for myself or guest).

best designed garage units are the once that have the bath between the garage and the living quarters or bedroom (least desired)....this way if you enter thru the garage you can minimize the dirt tracked in....and you can even take a shower or drop your dirty clothes in the bathroom before entering the living space or bedroom.

with an elevated platform (bed) you could gain some hidden storage or room for water tank.

 

[Java230]

instead of 2 fans - id put an Air Conditoner (w/ heat coil) in one of those roof holes.

if no air conditioner plans then at least before you spray foam it run some 115vac/15 or 20a wiring or at a minimum some plastic conduit to the vents holes (for the next owner) and for some overhead lighting....Itll make it easier to sell later.

Interior #1 seems problematic to me - I'd want to be able to slide long items all the way thru to the "kitchen"/Interior and the bed position prevents that.

Also - I wouldn't want my bedroom near the door....too much chance of dirt infiltration into the bedroom & entering thru the bedroom is great (either for myself or guest).

best designed garage units are the once that have the bath between the garage and the living quarters or bedroom (least desired)....this way if you enter thru the garage you can minimize the dirt tracked in....and you can even take a shower or drop your dirty clothes in the bathroom before entering the living space or bedroom.

with an elevated platform (bed) you could gain some hidden storage or room for water tank.

I took the ac off our last rv and hove not missed it. We are a but weird, we don't stay in parks, we will be out in the woods somewhere or skiing. Not needing to run the generator or be plugged in is a big plus. I will run come conduit for a future circuit though, that's a good idea.

The back doors are not going to be used for entry, there is a man door just in front of the bathroom on the passenger side. The passenger side will be a tall exterior storage area (skis) and 5he driver side will open for ventilation if the summer.

The layout is a bit cramped, it's only 12' of floor space to deal with. But I think it will work.

 

[bushpilot-TC]

I took the ac off our last rv and hove not missed it. We are a but weird, we don't stay in parks, we will be out in the woods somewhere or skiing. Not needing to run the generator or be plugged in is a big plus. I will run come conduit for a future circuit though, that's a good idea.

The back doors are not going to be used for entry, there is a man door just in front of the bathroom on the passenger side. The passenger side will be a tall exterior storage area (skis) and 5he driver side will open for ventilation if the summer.

The layout is a bit cramped, it's only 12' of floor space to deal with. But I think it will work.

no doubt its nice, (in your area) not to need AirConditioning but from a resale perspective its market limiting.

the wiring makes it easiy for the next buyer.

Have you thought about solar panels on the roof? Or the option to add them (later)? better to have access to wiring/options now before you spray foam and cover it.


I understand that the entry point is via the side...but w/ those big rear doors remaining in place I can't imaging the rear doors not being used....even if you built a wall for isolated/enclosed storage & then added a pocket door in the wall you'd get some purpose out of it.

 

[Java230]

no doubt its nice, (in your area) not to need AirConditioning but from a resale perspective its market limiting.

the wiring makes it easiy for the next buyer.

Have you thought about solar panels on the roof? Or the option to add them (later)? better to have access to wiring/options now before you spray foam and cover it.


I understand that the entry point is via the side...but w/ those big rear doors remaining in place I can't imaging the rear doors not being used....even if you built a wall for isolated/enclosed storage & then added a pocket door in the wall you'd get some purpose out of it.

AC would be nice to have at times, but we manage. Also the roof is already at ~12' i dont want to add too much more height.

I do have a conduit and an an enclose with two glands on the roof. I am going back and fourth on portable panels vs on the roof.

I see what your saying about the back doors now. Its a possibility, but the passenger side will have a wall, and the divers side you will have to crawl across the bed thats 24" AFF.

 

[Java230]

A little progress today. Light goes fast after work these days!

hmmmm leaking roof "vent"

Pull off plywood, scrub with MEK

MaxxFan shroud, covered in sticky stuff.

Roof hole #1 done! Only broke one screw off. Stupid stainless.

 

[bushpilot-TC]

AC would be nice to have at times, but we manage. Also the roof is already at ~12' i dont want to add too much more height.

I do have a conduit and an an enclose with two glands on the roof. I am going back and fourth on portable panels vs on the roof.

I see what your saying about the back doors now. Its a possibility, but the passenger side will have a wall, and the divers side you will have to crawl across the bed thats 24" AFF.

Height will be the next owners problem Keeping it under 13' means you can go just about anywhere. Most of us are 13'1" but under 13'6".

FWIW - The Coleman-Mach 8 AC unit only adds 8" of height.

They drawl between less than 2kw (15k BTU), so they can be run w/ a small whisper quiet portable (Honda)....the 8k BTU unit barely exceeds 1500w (In desert conditions)...nominally it only pulls 1200w

 

[Java230]

That's not bad actually. I'll look into it. We will be using a Honda 2000eu for gen set.

We do a lot of forest service roads, so keeping height down is needed... It's a bit taller than my previous truck....

 

[Bob86ZZ4]

I'm with Don, put an a/c unit in. Or at minimum run the 12 gauge romex up there and some low voltage wire for the thermostat.

 

[Java230]

I'm with Don, put an a/c unit in. Or at minimum run the 12 gauge romex up there and some low voltage wire for the thermostat.

I will definitely run one up there.

More small progress. Climbed under, with tarp this time (i managed to park on the non gravel, ie mud section of my driveway), to investigate oil leaks. Headlamp, UV light and torque wrench in hand.

Oil pan bolts are to torque spec (9.5 ft lbs, really?!) but are dripping from the heads around the back of the pan, front looks dry, that makes me thing its seeping past the bolts/threads, but could be running down from above. I just don't see it getting to the heads of the bolts.

Valve cover area on passenger side is wet and running down the block, may be valve cover gaskets, may just be the glow plug harness on that side (DUMB design). Likely both though. Still determining if I want to tackle those or farm it out.

Stripped the interior down. I was getting a bit of water at the back edge of the cabover, need to find it. I had a suspect in mind.

Marker lights were the suspect, and sure enough, you can see the tel tale dribble line coming out the bottom. (there may still be a little coming in from the gutter-body joint, but that is TBD)

Passenger side is better, but still a little drip.

In case anyone is interested, here is how the panels clip together and form the ribs.

 

[bushpilot-TC]

I know Bob (Bob86ZZ4) has knowledge of issues w/ flush mounted cab over / clearance lights.

Is that the (2011+) 6.7L scorpion...insight out motor...exhaust manifold in the valley & injectors on the exterior of the block, where tradition exhaust manifold would be?

regardless of the motor year - there's a good bunch of guys on the internet for the ford diesel stuff (I have a 6.0L myself)....all they do is Ford Diesel Trucks.

Look for PSE (Power Stroke Enginuities) - Dorian is the owner, friend of mine - and great/famous guy for all power stroke stuff....he might be able to provide some insight to the oil leak. https://www.facebook.com/pages/PowerStrokeEnginuities/

Regarding small / portable generator - if you can tolerate slightly more noise and more wattage (than the Honda), Generac makes the iX2000 (2kw) unit, that delivers a TRUE 2kw (RMS) 2200 peak....I picked one up for about 500 bucks.

 

[Java230]

I know Bob (Bob86ZZ4) has knowledge of issues w/ flush mounted cab over / clearance lights.

Is that the (2011+) 6.7L scorpion...insight out motor...exhaust manifold in the valley & injectors on the exterior of the block, where tradition exhaust manifold would be?

regardless of the motor year - there's a good bunch of guys on the internet for the ford diesel stuff (I have a 6.0L myself)....all they do is Ford Diesel Trucks.

Look for PSE (Power Stroke Enginuities) - Dorian is the owner, friend of mine - and great/famous guy for all power stroke stuff....he might be able to provide some insight to the oil leak. https://www.facebook.com/pages/PowerStrokeEnginuities/

Regarding small / portable generator - if you can tolerate slightly more noise and more wattage (than the Honda), Generac makes the iX2000 (2kw) unit, that delivers a TRUE 2kw (RMS) 2200 peak....I picked one up for about 500 bucks.

its an 08, so the 6.4L, turbos are in the valley, but the injectors/exhaust is normal. Ill look into him, thanks! I have found lots of writ ups online. If its just the injector harness, its not too bad, but the oil pan is going to be a huge pain in the ass. Too big of a motor stuffed into too small of a truck. Such is life.

I already have the Honda, so I am going to use that first. I have 500 AH of batteries, so I am hopeful I wont need it too much. It also has dual 120A alternators.

Im all ears on the clearance lights. I sealed them up, but hopefully they never have to come out.... They are LED at least.

 

[Java230]

Brown Santa has been leaving me lots of goodies.

12/3 SJTW for the 12V circuits. I could buy 100' extension cord cheaper than the wire, go figure. Made in the USA too.

14/2 Anchor Marine Tinned cooper wire for the 12V circuits, 250' roll, also Made in the USA.

Also got a switch panel and the interior lights I will be using.

I only had an hour or so, but I started on the cab.

Stripped the back wall.

I knew there were some mice at some point as I found some turds under the back seat.... But they made a home in the middle seat belt housing. No fresh, but stinky mouse pee. Somehow they seemed to have made it above the headliner too... I really didn't want to pull that.

Planning for the pass through, it looks like I can unbolt and slide the box back about 6", I hope thats enough! And of course this is a glued in back window.

 

[bushpilot-TC]

its an 08, so the 6.4L, turbos are in the valley, but the injectors/exhaust is normal. Ill look into him, thanks! I have found lots of writ ups online. If its just the injector harness, its not too bad, but the oil pan is going to be a huge pain in the ass. Too big of a motor stuffed into too small of a truck. Such is life.

yup, I know on the 7.3 & 6.0L some pans rusted...and the motor has to be pulled (or at least lifted) to replace the oil pan.

 

[Java230]

yup, I know on the 7.3 & 6.0L some pans rusted...and the motor has to be pulled (or at least lifted) to replace the oil pan.

Exactly, no rust on mine, but leaky gasket....

Unbolt engine mounts and place jack under balancer, supposedly only need to lift 1/2-3/4" to to able to reach in and unbolt oil pickup and slide pan out.... Ill try some stop leak first....

 

[Java230]

wiring rough in is just about done. I used that entire 250' roll of 14/2, and i didn't use it for the lighting circuits (18 gauge for the LED's). I didnt quite expect it to go tat fast! I need another 30' probably. Need to run circuit for the heater and water pump still. I will likely run those ousisde the wall later on.

Door and double pane windows have been ordered too!

Two main areas for the elec, under the bed, where the batteries, inverter/charger fuse panel and breakers will live, and the end of the cabinets of the opposite side, where all the switches will be. The rest is lighting circuits, and conviniance plugs. I need to figure out a way to keep the end of the wires poking out of the walls/ceilings where I want them, duct tape may work, but the entire inside of the box is covered with frost at the moment, its cold out...

I got some rigid insulation to start furring the ceiling down with as well!

 

[Java230]

A little more every day is the idea right?

One table saw, one sheet of 3/4 ply turned into little pieces.

Got one wall almost done. It was butt berkeleying cold. The missing areas are doors/windows.

 

[Java230]

So I tried insulating the aluminum channels. That was a failure. The foam would only expand ~6" either side of the hole, no matter how much you tired to pump in. Im not going to put a 15/64 hole very foot.... Looks like they will remain uninsulated unless someone has a genius idea. Thoughts? I am trying to avoid cold bridging.

You can see the foam puking out of the holes in a few spots here. That stuff was not cheap.

Got the ceiling channels filled at least.

Box of goodies is growing

Battery interconnect cables. Check, CL score.

Got an on demand hot water tank on Ebay, killer price, should be a nice unit, 60K btu's.

 

[bushpilot-TC]

must be why the MFG's don't insulate there either (you can see the strips on our coach on humid mornings).

Some places are probably left better un-insulated or stuffed with pink stuff (vapor barrier / moisture may be of concern)....maybe sheets of blue foam/foil backed foam core might be better/easier.

I worry that foam stuff expands so much that it could push things out of joint.

Be interesting to hear about the on demand heater - 60k BTU's is a lot. id be curious about the propane consumption, does it have an electric option?

Plumber friend of mine hates the (residential) on demand - he thinks they consume more GAS - since they have to have such strong heaters and they need to fire up (waisting water) before you see hot water at the tap.

Our 10g is more than enough for several people (back to back / boat showers) and its consumption for propane is minimal (we use the electric source when on shore power, so consumption of gas is further reduced).