Warpath-TC
Senior Member
O.K. why didn't someone put together a site like this before I bought my truck.
Here was my vision when I bought my truck. I was looking for a small sleeper 48" to add 2 additional air chairs for my kids. I spent 3 months re-doing the interior and got it just the way I wanted it. Yesterday, I found out it had to be cut off, do to configuration problems. I also found a picture of a conversion done the way I was going to do mine. It looked real bad, it just did not look right.
Well there are a number of issues to consider before you buy that truck for a motorhome conversion.
#1. Cab height. Do you want a sleeping bunk above the cab? Many of the new Class 8 & some of the older trucks have a cab which is to tall to allow for a sleeping bunk. The New Mack Vision is a good example of a cab which is to tall. The space above a cab this tall can only be used for storage &/or entertainment system. I was lucky in this area, my cab is just low enough.
#2. Cab type. My cab had a integral 48" sleeper, my conversion will be a 26'. With a overall length of almost 40' the wheel base will be to long for a single rear axle. Can it be done yes, done right no. Integral sleeper pose another problem, it is not easily removed, and major modifications are needed to do it right. Oh and all that work I did is worthless.
#3 Transmission - what ever the truck has when you buy it is what your most likely stuck with. If you have a manuel transmission you could upgrade to a Allison 740 Automatic ($15,000 - $20,000) if your rear end gearing is right. (if your truck as a Fuller 10 speed forget it) Also the 740 is not a smooth shifting transmission. A Allison World Automatic(very smooth) can be done if your engine is computer controlled and you have $25,000 - $30,000. I have a Fuller 10 speed Manuel transmission and hated it for the first 3 months. It has taken some serious driving time, but it really has grown on me and don't mind it at all.
#4 Don't worry about nice big air horns on the cab roof. They will need to be removed and put under the hood to accommodate the bunk over the cab.
#5 Do not purchase stainless steel wheel simulators for those steel wheels. Bite the bullet and put polished aluminum rims on. The price for the simulators are just slightly cheaper than the aluminum rims. Aluminum perform much better, look nicer and weight alot less. Oh by the way I have a set for sale
#6 Don't let a set of newer tires be the deciding factor on one truck over another. Most trucking companies do not opt for the best tires. I had newer Bridgestone's on my truck, but they where low end tires and road & handled horribly. One of the best riding tires is the Michelin XZE or XZ2 series tires.
Well I am getting a Harvard education in building a truck conversion motorhome, just hope I am learning.
Bill
1995 FL FLD120, M11, custom interior.
Here was my vision when I bought my truck. I was looking for a small sleeper 48" to add 2 additional air chairs for my kids. I spent 3 months re-doing the interior and got it just the way I wanted it. Yesterday, I found out it had to be cut off, do to configuration problems. I also found a picture of a conversion done the way I was going to do mine. It looked real bad, it just did not look right.
Well there are a number of issues to consider before you buy that truck for a motorhome conversion.
#1. Cab height. Do you want a sleeping bunk above the cab? Many of the new Class 8 & some of the older trucks have a cab which is to tall to allow for a sleeping bunk. The New Mack Vision is a good example of a cab which is to tall. The space above a cab this tall can only be used for storage &/or entertainment system. I was lucky in this area, my cab is just low enough.
#2. Cab type. My cab had a integral 48" sleeper, my conversion will be a 26'. With a overall length of almost 40' the wheel base will be to long for a single rear axle. Can it be done yes, done right no. Integral sleeper pose another problem, it is not easily removed, and major modifications are needed to do it right. Oh and all that work I did is worthless.
#3 Transmission - what ever the truck has when you buy it is what your most likely stuck with. If you have a manuel transmission you could upgrade to a Allison 740 Automatic ($15,000 - $20,000) if your rear end gearing is right. (if your truck as a Fuller 10 speed forget it) Also the 740 is not a smooth shifting transmission. A Allison World Automatic(very smooth) can be done if your engine is computer controlled and you have $25,000 - $30,000. I have a Fuller 10 speed Manuel transmission and hated it for the first 3 months. It has taken some serious driving time, but it really has grown on me and don't mind it at all.
#4 Don't worry about nice big air horns on the cab roof. They will need to be removed and put under the hood to accommodate the bunk over the cab.
#5 Do not purchase stainless steel wheel simulators for those steel wheels. Bite the bullet and put polished aluminum rims on. The price for the simulators are just slightly cheaper than the aluminum rims. Aluminum perform much better, look nicer and weight alot less. Oh by the way I have a set for sale
#6 Don't let a set of newer tires be the deciding factor on one truck over another. Most trucking companies do not opt for the best tires. I had newer Bridgestone's on my truck, but they where low end tires and road & handled horribly. One of the best riding tires is the Michelin XZE or XZ2 series tires.
Well I am getting a Harvard education in building a truck conversion motorhome, just hope I am learning.
Bill
1995 FL FLD120, M11, custom interior.
