framing outer walls?

[volvoman]

do most builders do floor then roof before doing sides? or do they do floor, walls then roof? what about putting thin plywood on before outer skin? would it keep walls straighter?

 

[BlizzND]

On mine they did the floor 1st, then ceiling plywood then the interior plywood. that way all the outlets can be wired and insualtion installed. On mine they stpled the insulation to the interior plywood sheeting every 2 or 3" to keep the insulation from pushing out against the alum skin causing it to bow out.

Donnie Barnes took a lot of pictures of his build. if a picture is worth a 1000 words, his pictures are worth millions!

Transport designs built Donnie's truck;

Donnie Barnes Coach build


good luck, we need more pictures of your build too!

-blizz

 

[RaceItAgain]

Volvoman
I would suggest looking/searching for posts by "geofkaye"

 

[geofkaye]

or you can call me at 888.513.5393....geofkaye AND THE RIVERCITY GROUP....ILL CALL YOU BACK ASAP.....

 

[geofkaye]

...i'll try again to type...1-888-513-5293....need glasses/or larger keys......geofkaye

 

[volvoman]

just making sure i'm being clear. i'm talking about framing 2" steel tubing not inner and outer walls.

 

[geofkaye]

...EXACTLY...16" ON CENTER-ROOF AND SIDES.....TIGHT FRAME AROUND WINDOWS AND DOORS(1/4"GAP).....BRACING IN LATERAL CORNERS FOR SIDE TO SIDE SWAYING ISSUE......USE FOAM FOR INSULATION-SPRAY FOAM INSULATION AND GOOD INTERIOR VAPOR BARRIER AND PLYWOOD PANELING....I'D SUGGEST 3/8 GOOD ONE SIDE...AND IF FOR THE LONG TERM COAT WITH ENAMEL BEFORE AND AFTER PLACEMENT....geofkaye and the RIVERCITY GIRLZ.......or with out spary foam -use polysiocynate sheets called "R-MAX" glue in place to provent air movemant....this way you can use electric for heat/ cool and not an excessively large unite to do the job....remember the air to air ventulation uniet form BAL......its your money

 

[volvoman]

blizzardND are the pictures of your motorhome? if not do you know who's it is?

 

[BlizzND]

The pictures of Donnie Barne's Truck were taken at Transport Designs shop. Donnie is a regular on the Escappees Forum HDT sub-forum. My project photos are chronicled on the Escapees MDT sub-forum.

Link:
RumRunner Build

I may get around to upating it soon!
-blizz

 

[mmmc101]

Volvoman,
I to am building my box with 2" tubing. I built the floor first and then the roof. Floor is 2X4 11ga outside with 2X3 11ga floor joist,roof is 2X3 14 ga outer with 2X2 14ga roof stringers. After the floor was completed I framed and tacked together the roof framework with it clamped to the floor framework.Make sure the floor framework is perfectly level. I then picked up the roof framing with a overhead hoist and tacked in the four corners after temp bracing everything with angle iron and C-clamps.I then installed the remaining wall studs.Surprised me,it was within 1/16th inch square after it was all welded up.Welding heat will really pull them out of square if not properly braced. I would post pictures on here but I have been unsucessfull on three other trys. If you send me your email address I will gladly send you the pic's. The box is currently sitting on the truck for a mock-up to make sure everything will fit as it should.
Michael

 

[BlizzND]

mmmc101 mentioned leveling the truck, It is Very VERY important to level the truck, then block it into place so It cannot settle. If you add weight without starting the truck the truck will settle. If you lose air the truck will settle. If you move the truck out to sweep the floor, and don't park it in the same spot, it may no longer be level.

Please don't ask me how I learned all this, but I wish I'd paid closer attention to the guys I subbed some work out too.

blizz


mmmc101 if you would like to email them to me I will post them for you.

blizzND at Gmail dot com

I love to see construction pistures!

 

[volvoman]

mmmc101
you can send them to mcveighstruckctr@att.net
let me know why you cant post pictures.
took me quite awhile to figure it out also.

 

[mmmc101]

Volvoman,
I sent the pictures to Blizz to see if he can post them.My computer skills are really lacking! I really want to get them out there as I have many questions for the members of this forum. Lessons learned are worth there weight in gold and this forum seems to have a wealth of knowledge.Thanks
Michael

 

[BlizzND]

Michaels Pictures: Hot off the email press...

looks lie some real nice work!!

 

[BlizzND]

Michaels Trailer:

this picture is a small block Chevy, and I'm a Ford guy, but being generous this morning, I'll post it too.

-blizz

 

[mmmc101]

Thanks Blizz, I forgot that engine picture was in there. My wife took that picture to remind me that we have more $ in that engine than we have in the Toterhome!
Michael

 

[geofkaye]

..i wouldn't cover the fuel tanks---sometimes they need to be repaired or even dropped for cleaning off the truck...geofkaye and the Rivercity Girlz

 

[Burt Chapman]

Geoff's got a great point . I covered my tanks sorta/ made my cargo doors go right to the back of the cab, they just look like more cargo room, but can still be serviced, my buddies a Heavy Duty Mechanic, it was his idea...

 

[mmmc101]

Geoff,
You make a very good point.I gave that alot of thought before I covered the tank.My goal is to have the truck match the trailer as close as possible and I felt that would help achieve that goal.On the other hand,if the tank ever has to be removed it will be a real PIA.Gamble I decided to take.

Originally I intended to leave both tanks on the truck to extend the range.However,I discovered that doesn't leave much room for holding tanks,generator,batteries,etc. I have removed the drivers side tank and intend to mount the generator and batteries on a sliding tray to the original fuel tank mounts.This will counter the weight of the fuel tank and help isolate some vibration from the generator since the box is rubber mounted.My problem is I have been unable to find a slide tray or drawer slides heavy enough to support the generator and batteries. The generator weighs 504# plus two batteries.Any thoughts/ideas would be greatly appreciated. Michael

 

[geofkaye]

.....SAME AS A BUS OR TANK MOUNT....two pieces of angle iron one on top of the other...like two inverted "v's"....they wont creep or move if a bolt is in the end on the outside.....you need a come along to move in and out or a strong wife and an even stronger girl friend......if you need an insulator mount it on top of the top angle iron to insulate the generator form the mount.......works every time.....a tank can have the engine out in about 1.5 hours and on the floor same with with a bus if they need to chance out engines between runs......neat system if you get a chance look it over........geofkaye and the RIvercity Girlz....