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I think I represent that remark.

That's got to be a $60k trailer. Somebody send them a form to see their price. I couldn't find any for sale on other searches.

I would think you'd have to go with three axles on a stacker, wouldn't you? Even if it's short, you're going to need three to handle the weight of the two vehicles. I think you might have to cut back on some of the stuff you bring? Or make the teens drive a chase vehicle with whatever you can...

Looks pretty good to me.

That's a good question Don. My generator is started by the chassis batteries. Does a generator charge up it's own starter batteries when it's running? Like a car charges it's own battery when it's running? I've never checked the voltage directly on the chassis batteries with the generator...

They had to have wired it to charge the house batteries with the engine/alternator. On mine they ran it through a accessory switch on the dash. That switch wasn't even marked. I had to call the builder (lucky they were still in business at that time) and he told me about that switch. I'd bet you...

Wow, sorry if I offended you. I thought you asked for advice but now that I re-read your first post I see you asked for help. I will offer you something helpful: don't do it. Buy a truck that fits your wants and needs. And sell the one you've got. I know it's not the help you're looking for. But...

It has taken me years to figure out what I know about my rig. And I'm pretty sure I don't know everything about it yet. If I was you I would check the voltage on my house batteries. Then check the chassis battery voltage. If it's different they are separated. Now, try switching some switches...

Well, I think it's a terrible idea. Those FRP panels are going to be destroyed and they'll de-laminate. It's going to cost you a ton more than selling that rig and buying what you want. It's going to take many many hours to build. It'll look like crap and nobody will ever buy it when you do...

You're going to destroy it trying to cut off the back wall of the existing living quarters and trying to build sides, roof, and new back wall on. Is that what you're proposing? Maybe I'm confused (quite common for me).

Sam, my house batteries (2 12 volt deep cycle, I think like group 27 or something?) are in the storage bay directly underneath that night stand where I mounted the inverter. I didn't want to mount the inverter in that storage bay, I wanted it inside where it would be protected from the elements...

Your work looks real nice.

You are correct. I had heard that too. I did check the auto parts store and they had 2 gauge cable for $4/ft! I then checked my welding supply store and they have 1 gauge (car store didn't even have 1 gauge) for $2/ft. And it's that super flexible welder cable too. I also ordered another battery...

I paid the $54 I think. Couldn't wait for a sale, had to get this thing running. Yes, it could be finished off better. But probably won't be by me. I think the 2k inverter should be way over what I'll need. But I just don't want it to trip off. And it wasn't that much more than the 1.5k one...

Now the problem. The 600 watt pure sine wave inverter cuts off with an overload error code. I believe it's cutting off when the compressor tries to start up on the fridge. It seems to be fine for awhile and then cuts off. I tried using a hair dryer on the inverter and it worked fine until I got...

Those front leg levelers I used nylock nuts so they won't loosen up on the road. Here's some electrical install info. The builder (United Specialties) used that black plastic wire loom stuff to protect the romex around the framing under the bed. I used 3/4" liquid tight non-metallic conduit...

Got it all in. I made a couple of square steel tubing mounts for the bottom front. I wanted to mount the fridge out far enough to allow a bit of air to circulate. In order to do that I needed to have it stick out to a point that the front levelers were in free air. So, I removed those and used...

Sure looks like a ground wire to me. I'd use a volt/ohm meter. Set it to volts first and see if it's hot (pretty sure it's not going to be hot but best to check first). Then I'd set it to ohms and see if there is continuity between that and ground. If no continuity I'd hook it up to the ground...

Truck-Lite - Catalog Product : NYK-77 Compound

I always keep a big tube of dielectric grease in my tool bin. I put that s$%t on everything (electrical that is).

Hhhmmmm, I see them. Try using Chrome for your browser? Maybe whatever you're using doesn't like the pictures? I used to use Internet Explorer but had some problems viewing stuff there.

Yay, another member! Thanks.

Yes what Tom said. Not only the frame to consider. The driveline angles are important to get right when you move the drive axle back.

I really respect your ambition. And I'm guessing you are highly skilled otherwise you wouldn't even consider this build. But, have you done your homework? What you are intending to do is a huge project. Many people have done this and later wished they hadn't. Now, many have done it and are happy...