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Hey, I think I'll stick around here for now, especially since I'm used to the constant earthquakes, runaway brushfires, smog you can cut with a knife, and traffic snarls(THAT ought to slow down all those thinking of moving here....maybe...). Other than that it ain't so bad.....

Hey 'Dog! That is the type of machine I hope to build someday. I agree about the diamondplate! I hadn't thought about it as interior trim, but it does NOT look out of place! Another idea for THE RIG.....

Looks like an ex-moving van. Movers USUALLY put lighter stuff in the cabover, but that's not even the bad part; it has a GAS engine in it, a 429 no less. I estimate approx. 5mpg tops, with a tailwind.

I haven't seen it YET, but it sure sounds like a cool idea!

You know the line; "different strokes for different wackos" or something to that effect.....

Hey, uh, Geof, you sure that's HAY he's dealing in? And not some other green, leafy, substance? Just checking.....

Thanks cjc! Probably what many would regard as just good common sense, these are good pointers on how to maintain AND design a good workable RV water system. I like the charcoal filter idea, but how does one have a water softener in an RV? Are there any models for RV use? Maybe I might have...

I think I would too.......

What a WHALE! Must be a beach to drive......

That makes two of us.....

Here's one for all the insulation geniuses out there: About what is the R-value of the above-mentioned FRP as used in truck boxes and RV's? I'm sure other inquiring minds are dying to know, but were too chicken to ask.... Gary

Nothing that about a half-hour with a sawzall won't fix...... I never did like cabover bunks anyway.....

I have to agree that the FL112 DOES look better; if it looks like it might fit, or even a smidge too long, give 'er a shot! And BTW do give the aftermarket a look. There ARE bucks to be saved and the quality does not have to suffer.

I could be wrong, but I have a feeling the FL112 hood might be longer than the FL70 unit. Strictly out of curiosity, (and me being as nosey as I am) why do you want to put the 112 hood on your 70?

Now THERE is some useful info!

I wouldn't have left it off, as it makes a smooth transition to the coach itself, but I would have tried to find a way to trim the top of the upper "edge" of the sleeper, as it sticks up a bit too far. As usual, just my .02!

Man, this is getting to be one hot thread with not one, but TWO awesome rigs going together right before our eyes. What an awesome website!!!

I would say put some across the bottom somewhere, and more up the sides, then reinforce the heck out of the rear of the truck for the inevitable drunk that would mistake it for a tunnel entrance. How he would make that mistaken ID is beyond me after putting the stuff across the BOTTOM of the...

Travis- I think some fresh pix of the roof, skin, and windows are OBVIOUSLY overdue here! When a guy like yourself is putting together such a totally bitchin' rig like this one and there is NOT a steady stream of fresh illustrations of the job at hand, how the heck are we supposed to copy it...

Naw, couldn't be.....

Besides, there's something the Series 60 seems to have more of than the MB4000, and that's TORQUE, every trucker's first (sometimes second, but we won't go there just yet) love. At least that's the consensus(sp?) of the local milk haulers. The MB unit is OK as long as there aren't too many...

Yup. Something missing in the link. Like maybe.......... a missing link (somebody PLEASE tell me I didn't say that.......)

Now there is the optimum slide-in camper machine. That truck wouldn't feel a slide-in if it were made of cinder blocks w/solid grout, and wood paneling inside; 1-1/2" plywood that is! Talk about overkill......

Maybe a city block or two....... (U-turns, anybody?)

Man, that is gonna be one BITCHIN' RIG!! If you EVER get around the San Joaquin Valley, I've gotta see this rig! Can hardly wait to see the finished product..... Gary