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Next step is to mark and drill as we are moving the axles back one spot so we get the balance and overhang we want in order to build/affix the 22 foot box we will have. Sadly the drilling may not happen to quickly as i dont have a mag drill yet and the last holes i drilled in this thing...

Couple days ago, i had a local welder come out and weld the rails on...i can weld but i figured im better off paying someone who is certified that way i know its done properly.

Been getting things sorted for our 08 Volvo 670 build and was finally able to get the frame rail extensions bolted/supported into place.

Alright, let the games begin (sorry i travel for a living so things move very slowly sometimes).....finally got the 10 foot doner frame and support plates all cut, fitted, bolted up. (Before anyone says anything its surface rust i live in a 4 season area and our goverment loves salt for winter...

Thanks for the info Sir and i will post up photo's as soon as i kick this project in high gear.

I see were your going with this....so welded tabs on the box or frame that bolt for securement....thanks for the info.

So working through the planning stages and need some opinions.... We are planning to mount a dry van box to the Volvo chassis, would you weld it or would you U Bolt it? My thought is to weld it solid as it makes doing side storage boxes easier but their may be drawbacks as well....

That was the plan for the additional length but what about some stiffening rails that would get welded into the outer or main rails?

Anyone know a good place in Canada to order inner frame rails? Im going to lengthen the frame on my Volvo and i need inner C chanel to back up the extention.

I dont think youll have a problem as long as it looks good, is safe and is weight legal. I find that if your vehicle looks suspect you can be sure they will pull you in but if it looks like it belongs you should be good.

I think just a standard "c" chanel perimetre frame with some "i" beam or angle iron cross bars would work spaced out every so many feet between the timber deck pieces. So think big chanel flame each end fastebed to the frame rails, slid timbers into chanel, then slide in angle or i bean, more...

That would make a very interesting motorhome.......the things are built like tanks. The only thing one would have to be mindful of is total weight, alot of vehicles own by the city, like fire trucks, transit bused etc are actually over-weight for the roads but get exzeptions because its a city...

Its probably doable but you might have to change rad/charge air cooler/fan as well.

Yup...dont get me wrong...i'm totally with Santa here.....as i said "think it and build it" but dont "think it to hard".

Sadly they dont really make it, hence the adventure we are partaking.....i hear yah though.

Thanks for the tip! Never thought of scrap yard for school buses.

My suggestion, first and foremost, is to ask yourself what kind of camping are you thinking of doing as most Parks in the US go by the 10 foot rule, so every 10 feet moves you into specific camping spots so a 30 foot spot might perhaps be sided on 3 sides with trees but a 40 plus foot spot will...

Ill add more later but one thing is if your going automatic make sure it has an Allison....its probably the most reliable choice.

Hi guys, need some insight. We have a 2008 Volvo 670 that we are going to use as the base for our RV but we want to put a 20 foot box on the back so we need to add about 5 feet of frame rail ahead of the axles and about the same behind the axles. Now the most logical thing to do is add the...

thanks for the info!!

Very cool unit!!! How long was your stretch and how long are total?

Also truck collision shops .... you can also inquire with the local towing company as they are always having chassis mods dome.

Can you not register it as a standard pick up truck?

Thanks for the info....it all helps to put a picture together.

Depends on how many batteries, if the have BMS's etc....best to talk to the battery supplier so you dont fry something.n