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Depends on what your looking at....a Volvo or Peterbilt etc your looking at 10 to 20k to inframe the motor. If your going with a medium duty like Freightliner M2 with a Cummins ISL your probably 7 to 10k. Big trucks command big prices for parts and stupid labor rates but they last a long time...

Torque arm mount for the rear axle now in place, 5 front mount holes drilled with one more to go but i might have to drill the last one by hand.

Cross member welded up and installed...now if the weather would cooperate i might be able to drill the holes for the lateral bar mounts.

So what's next....i think it will be to drill holes for the lateral bar mounts, weather permitting and if there is still time in the day, weld up crossmembers so i can get the frame squared away from a fabricating stand point. Still not sure if i'm going to build the box or buy a dry van...

Next thing was crossmember #4....this one goes between the rear axle suspension mounts and because the frame i used for the extension being one year older than the truck it was also a couple millimeters thicker....so i had to slice about 3/4 inch out of the crossmember. Yup, it will get welded...

Next task was to take a section out of the 3rd cross member to allow clearance for the power divider. Yes it may have been easier to perhaps relocate it but that would mean more drilling into the frame and probably welding up extra holes. I will make a new lower "shelf" for the area cut out and...

Well the snow is go [i hope] and i can finally get back to working on this project. I have been patiently waiting to ream the holes and install the last 4 suspension bolts to complete this task.

Are you planning on putting anything between the skin and the frame? If not SikaFlex or the like is probably the best for sealing.

Huck bolting is interesting....it uses the stretching of the fastener to lock everything in place...the very design of a bolt is "torque to yeild" which is stretching it to a specific length and that is what holds everything. Huck bolt tools area abailable but your looking at about 5k to start...

My only advise here is if you decide to single it yourself is just make sure you have to proper bolts for remounting the axle before you start. If you go with a Volvo your going to need metric hardware or enlarge the bolt holes to 5/8" ....just make sure what ever you decide that you remount...

Yah thats another tool that would do it for sure....i just domt have one so the grinder with cut off disc was my only option....worked fine just took a bit longer.

ABS may not be a biggy depending on the original set up....my Volvo 670 that im converting only has ABS on the first rear axle and not the last so if swapped all one needs is to swap the sensor mounts and no reprograming needed. Mine also only has one rear leveling valve for all the rear bags...

Wow!! I know i'd be doing the singling myself for that price as you could knock a zero off that price for sure. If you know what you want for a deck take a picture down to your local fabrication/welding shop and see what they would charge as you can do the paint/finish work which might drop the...

Yah its not really a big deal to drop the axles, slice a bit off the frame and put the rear axle exactly were the center one was...not like they are adding stuff. Now if that includes the bed etc maybe but just to single it?? If you have a shop you can back the rear of the truck into, a bit...

Dually's dont turn worth cr*p and he's probably right that the 630 singled will. There's one big difference he forgot to mention....weight. So before you go blowing a bunch of cash you need to check your local RV licensing limits....here in Ontario Canada its 11000kg's truck trailer combined...

The stack idea sounds like a win just have a look at the RV ventury exhaust as you might have to keep the bottom area of the stack open [obviously it could be hidden under the truck] As far a gen set...most gen power is not really clean so it causes certain issues with electronics etc....how...

Im building roughly the same thing on a Volvo chassy and the general numbers i have measured on most motorhomes is no more than 10 feet. Personally i think 10 feet is to much in my opinion (on a 36' total length build) so on ours i have approx 6 feet of overhang. There may also be state or...

Talk to the vinyl wrap guys and see if they have a clear wrap or if your rig is white just have it wrapped in that color. The wrap will protect the trailer etc but like anything will still get damadged over time so you still need to maintain and inspect it. Sadly the only true way to avoid...

Mount to frame as the weight is gonna be to high unless you add multiple bags. It also going to be hard to keep it centered etc just by shear size of the box (dont think a lateral bar will do the job). Most toters (correct me if im wrong) are solid mounted including the cab and just rely on air...

Thanks for the tip!

Few reasons: - traction/flotation with the ability to lock all diffs so 4x4 - extra set of brakes - running the stock fuel tanks (250gal approx total) and didnt want to take a chance with axle ratings - last, and most important, i personally dont like the look of the single rear axle...stupid...

Well waiting on grade 8 bolts so i secured the axle with what i had on hand and continued on.....axle #2 moved back to the old rear axle spot giving me a total move of 54" and about 6' of overhang. The plan is for a 20 to 22 foot box keeping us around 34 to 36' total length so we can get into...

Thank you Sir!

Anyone know what grade a Huck Bolt is? I need to rebolt my suspension components in place and i'm guessing Grade 8 fasteners will be enough bit just want to be sure.

Another good days work, one new grinder later....rear axle moved back and 85% installed. Have a few more holes to drill and need some longer bolts to secure things correctly. Once thats done ill move the other axle, it will be faster as its going were the other was so probably only 6 or 8 holes...