Track Car Hauler with Token RV aspect.

[xyobgyn]

Truck has arrived. Have looked up the specification on the lift, made by MBB who was bought out by Palfinger. I have an ILK 33 for which I was able to look up specifications. It is a cantilever lift. Not a rail lift that might have been more easily modified. However, the specification for capacity is 100% at 24", 80%-36", 60%-48", and 45% at 60 inches. Realistically this means I could build ramp extensions as pictured above, and load car of 2700 lb plus 100 lb ramps = 2800 onto the gate, flat on the ground. The extensions would have to be set up with wheels on the end so they roll on the ground to some extent. With half the weight on the ground, I could elevate the gate being carful with the angles, so that I didn't try and lift the whole thing at once... the ramps could roll on the ground.... Then, to get over the hump, I could either use foam humps in the truck, or modify the truck floor as shown... winch the car in so the front wheels are in the truck, elevated for clearance, and if the rear wheels are at 60", the gate will support the weight.

[hot rod]

State Farm didn't blink an eye at my C6500 Topkick at 26000gvw. They called it a box truck (built for pulling camper, not built on the unit) not an RV but didn't have any problem.

[xyobgyn]

Spent several hours on the project this weekend.

Regrets:

1) Wish I had more carefully examined the truck box to see what the material was made of for the actual walls. It turns out that it is made of 1/2 inch plywood covered with "plasticized" interior and exterior layers. I was expecting a thin aluminum or steel sheet alone on ribs.... Had that been there, the seal I bought from Unigrip (standard 2-7 cm item) would have been quite easy to attach to the thin sheet metal of the truck, and stretch to the thin sheet metal of the cab... or suitable substitute for the window section.

2) Wish I had more carefully considered ensuring that the actual circumference of the two openings were closer in size... especially on the flat bottom edge. For example, given the shapes pressed into the cab's back wall to enhance strength, and prevent flapping.... I would have made the base of the box's side a bit longer..... to "soak up" some of the extra travel on the cab side.

3) Wish I had found a slightly thicker material for the replacement sections I fabricated for the windows. I'll re-do that at some point since I didn't finish the project in one weekend after-all.

4) I needed a Torx 55 to remove the rear seats in this Ford F650. My Torx set ended at 50. Had to run out and buy this.

Good Choices:

1) Use of Cleco 1/8 fasteners to help with fabrication
2) Use of Lexan vs Acrylic material. Home Depot has Lexan. Acrylic cracks and splits easily.
3) I'm a one-man-show.... Removing the rear window, and trying not to shatter or break it required a bit of ingenuity, and a couple quick You-Tube videos. I added my own twist, I cleaned off the top of the cab, and used 4 pieces of Duct tape... I left a slight loop loose between window and cab, so that when I pushed the window out, it was left hanging, not crashing down and breaking.
4) I was glad to have a variety of tools at hand. My pneumatic jigsaw was wonderful for cutting the cab's metal. Sawz-all with fresh wood blade was great for the box walls, using the same pneumatic jigsaw for the curved sections.
5) Take-out Coffee cup lid served as the form for curves at the corners.

In the images, one can see the botched white acrylic bits I cut out.

I used a large bit of Lexan and cut out the opening from it with several inches remaining all around the perimeter. This will fasten to the outside of the box with silicone and fasteners. the edges will protrude 1/2 inch into the opening that will be 1/2 larger than the edges of the cab.... This will allow use of the seal, and keep the actual opening even. By fastening this Lexan to the outside of the box, I should keep water away from the cut edge of the wood box walls.

[xyobgyn]

Some questions, if anyone is following....

1) The bottom section of the wood walls where I cut the Pass Through had water damage. Obviously the walls were sitting in water, and wicked it up.

Short of cutting out the wood, I'm assuming no good way to repair this. I'm going to vacuum out the "crack" between the wall and the wood floor so there is no dirt and debris there to "hold" water there. But I guess the challenge will be to take a hose to the outside of the truck, and see if I can locate where the ingress is?

I'm afraid water could get in from the outside base aluminum trim that covers up the junction between wall and floor.

2) I'm not convinced the seal will do a great deal of temperature insulating, but will eventually be fine for moisture-rain issues.

Do most people therefore cut a larger opening, seal it, and then bulk up the passage way with additional insulation and material to help with insulation?

3) Looking for creative ways to add stairs to the side door. Deck height is 46 inches. I'm not sure bolting steps onto the thin metal of the Under Deck storage boxes is the answer. (Either the doors are not strong enough), or, if I bolt above the doors, I can't use the box) Something that folds out from the door, fastened to the inner surface of the door? I'd prefer not to bolt to the trucks floor, as it will potentially be a trip point or where the car belongs.

Progressive handled insurance affordably.

Dhollandia a European Firm with representation in the US makes some beautiful liftgates that would handle direct loading of the car into the truck.

They also want about $15,000 for their liftgate. Given a comparison to a Factory built Showhauler or Renegade RV/Toyhauler with such a lift and 20 foot garage where the cost is 200K, 300K, 400K, 500+K, that seems reasonable. Compared to the cost of the truck itself and my budget, it is not reasonable.

[Java230]

How about penetrating epoxy for the lower wood section?

I put some EZ cool over my cab-box gasket, not sure it does a ton. I throw a moving blanket over the hole when we are stopped, kind of isolates the cab.

I want to say I have seen an h shaped extrusion that will go over the ply and leave a lip for the seal to attach to.

As to stairs, is how much space is there for the floor 'frame' Mine had a couple inches there that was enough to mount the hooks for the steps. It would make getting in the box harder though.

Something like this with a landing at the top would make the tool box more useful.

[samcrimm]

Java are you pulling a pup? I been trying to figure out a trailer for all our toys and such. I have thought about a pup, flat deck trailer, and goose necks, and the hyd lifts on a trailer for stacking. Interesting

Sam

[Java230]

Originally Posted by samcrimm

Java are you pulling a pup? I been trying to figure out a trailer for all our toys and such. I have thought about a pup, flat deck trailer, and goose necks, and the hyd lifts on a trailer for stacking. Interesting

Sam

Nope, we tow the boat occasionally. The previous owner dragged a 26-foot enclosed trailer around though.

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[samcrimm]

So what is in the picture beside the kool looking steps? sure is shiny

[Java230]

Ah just a step example of the Googler saved in my ideas folder....

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[samcrimm]

I have to see more, do you have the web site where you got the picture from?

[Java230]

Originally Posted by samcrimm

I have to see more, do you have the web site where you got the picture from?

I'll see if I can find it tomorrow.... I saves a few examples of steps I liked.... It's a commercially available one iirc

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[xyobgyn]

I like those!

Not sure how or where they store. Will try and google image those and find the source as well.

By the way, looking at RV Electric Landing Gears.... I think one under each ramp secured properly under the rear wheel, with front wheel up on truck will do the trick. I'll try and draw it up, but these look to be the bomb. Not cheap, but light, extendable legs, up to 12,000 lb, and given hinged ramps, will not tip over, and more than easily lift up each ramp to straighten out the set up.

[Java230]

Originally Posted by xyobgyn

I like those!

Not sure how or where they store. Will try and google image those and find the source as well.

They slide in under the trailer

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[Java230]

Here you go https://www.romcorp.com/products/tru...bustin-tap-200

[samcrimm]

thanks Java, I was hoping it was something different but that is a kool set up.

Sam

[Java230]

Sam there are other similar ones out there!

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[samcrimm]

its not the steps I was looking at, it was at the pups and how they were set up for something else. Thanks
Sam

[xyobgyn]

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-and-Camp...ophy/AS25.html

These Brophy ones appeal to me. They have a bracket that fixes in a very narrow profile to the side of the truck, and the stairs compact down to a very small package I could store in one of my basement boxes when not in use. They seem to just drop into the bracket easily for use.... They would not require a lot of work to install, or use, nor take up floor space, or force me to revise the current box structure.

The only downside would be some ability to access the side boxes, but its relatively unimportant. I could station them to block only one set of boxes. The same website has an affordable railing as well for about $87 the folds up and is easily removable.

Alex.

[Java230]

Alex, I have the Brophy ones. They work well. If you want any measurements let me Know.

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[xyobgyn]

Did you get the aluminum tread plate design, or, the solid aluminum with the anti-friction black appliqué?

The latter looks a little nicer, but may not be as durable. Very close in $$.

I'm not sure measurements will help. My deck is about 46", so I know which model I would need.