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06-11-2013, 10:40 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,819
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I have a friend that is a commercial vehicle inspector in MN. If you are over 10k lbs. and operating in furtherance of a commercial venture, you must follow all the DOT regs. The 26k threshold is where you now need a class A license. Also a 10001 lbs or greater trailer would push you into a class A license. But remember, greater than 10k combined makes you subject to all the DOT regs. So, you could have a van all stickered up for a company and say the van has a manufacturers gross weight rating of 7400 lbs. You're fine with no DOT rules. Now, hitch up a trailer to it that has a rating of 3k lbs. Boom goes the dynamite. Even if there is nothing in the van or on the trailer. The whole thing might only weigh 6k lbs. across the scale. Doesn't matter. The sticker in the door jamb and the plate on the trailer will say what they are rated for and if the total is over 10k lbs, there you go. Don't let that 26k part confuse anything. Commercial is commercial.
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'03 Freightliner FL112, 295" wheel base, with '03 United Specialties 26' living quarters, single screw, Cat C12 430 h/p 1650 torque, Eaton 10speed , 3.42 rear axle ratio
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06-11-2013, 01:10 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 527
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Bob-
That was my experience as well, straight from the "nice" dot people here in Ohio when I got my usdot number. I talk to lots of other guys with their heads still in the sand saying things like "well my buddy told me this" or "this other guy I know isn't doing any of that". They'll all get caught sooner or later.
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06-12-2013, 05:43 PM
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#43
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Charoltte
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob86ZZ4
I have a friend that is a commercial vehicle inspector in MN. If you are over 10k lbs. and operating in furtherance of a commercial venture, you must follow all the DOT regs. The 26k threshold is where you now need a class A license. Also a 10001 lbs or greater trailer would push you into a class A license. But remember, greater than 10k combined makes you subject to all the DOT regs. So, you could have a van all stickered up for a company and say the van has a manufacturers gross weight rating of 7400 lbs. You're fine with no DOT rules. Now, hitch up a trailer to it that has a rating of 3k lbs. Boom goes the dynamite. Even if there is nothing in the van or on the trailer. The whole thing might only weigh 6k lbs. across the scale. Doesn't matter. The sticker in the door jamb and the plate on the trailer will say what they are rated for and if the total is over 10k lbs, there you go. Don't let that 26k part confuse anything. Commercial is commercial.
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understood, thanks for you help. i believe we will not be lettering this. for now i have the truck registered as a regular truck. im only about a mile from the DOT/DMV inspectors here in town so ill make sure there 100% with what im doing when they inspect it for the Title change.if not it can still be a truck under 26,000 lbs just not going to pull a trailer then.
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06-12-2013, 07:07 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Rockford
Posts: 490
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driveshaft shop i sent you a pm.
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06-15-2013, 06:01 PM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob86ZZ4
I have a friend that is a commercial vehicle inspector in MN. If you are over 10k lbs. and operating in furtherance of a commercial venture, you must follow all the DOT regs. The 26k threshold is where you now need a class A license. Also a 10001 lbs or greater trailer would push you into a class A license. But remember, greater than 10k combined makes you subject to all the DOT regs. So, you could have a van all stickered up for a company and say the van has a manufacturers gross weight rating of 7400 lbs. You're fine with no DOT rules. Now, hitch up a trailer to it that has a rating of 3k lbs. Boom goes the dynamite. Even if there is nothing in the van or on the trailer. The whole thing might only weigh 6k lbs. across the scale. Doesn't matter. The sticker in the door jamb and the plate on the trailer will say what they are rated for and if the total is over 10k lbs, there you go. Don't let that 26k part confuse anything. Commercial is commercial.
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This is 99% accurate. There is one small detail that is not quite correct. the 26k limit is not for class A. Class B is any straight truck over 26001. Any trailer over 10k is an automatic class A. But Bob is quite correct that anything over 10k and you need to follow the regs, just don't need a class B unless you cross 26k on a straight job, or pull a trailer than weighs more than 10k.
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06-15-2013, 06:04 PM
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#46
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 104
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Wanted to add my experiences to the list.
The show I work for is traveling in Texas atm. I went to the people at the county tax office and I was done in 15 minutes. Very simple and straight forward process. Pictures, weight slip (so they know what to charge you) an inspection (I had a 'green sheet' done.. full DOT inspection for an out of state vehicle.) and an affidavit stating what the vehicle is used for. 335 bucks and I was the proud owner of a reconstructed recreational vehicle. Should make getting insurance a shade easier, but still never an easy task with our trucks.
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06-17-2013, 07:25 PM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,819
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Sorry, I forgot about the class B license. Akat is right.
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'03 Freightliner FL112, 295" wheel base, with '03 United Specialties 26' living quarters, single screw, Cat C12 430 h/p 1650 torque, Eaton 10speed , 3.42 rear axle ratio
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08-14-2013, 06:31 PM
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#48
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 1
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wow! i am glad to of found this site, i am about to start the process of getting a '99 freightliner mt-35 changed to RV title.
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09-02-2013, 09:16 PM
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#49
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Indiana
Posts: 5
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I've found a new project and I'm thinking about putting this one up for sale, I'm not sure what market to advertise it in though. Lol. I did get it titled and licensed as a RV Motorhome. That was almost as much of an accomplishment as the mechanical aspects of the project. I've appreciated all the info from all the folks on this site!
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08-05-2016, 03:17 PM
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#50
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Lancaster
Posts: 1
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Converting a straight truck into a toterhome
I am from wisconsin. Does anyone know how to register a straight truck as a motorhome? Also are there basic requirement to meet the motor home standards in wisconsin.
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08-08-2016, 10:35 AM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Tomball
Posts: 1,414
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Don R.
'04 Haulmark (M42386) 42', 2 slide, 10kw - Pictures
'04 F350 CrewCab Longbed 4x4, 50g aux tank & gear vendors dbl over
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01-16-2017, 10:40 AM
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#52
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1
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I'm trying to figure out what I have to have to get my 1999 Volvo 610 titled/registered as an RV/Motorhome in Kansas.
I did find the Kansas Statute, it states:
HAS ALL OF THE FOLLOWING FEATURES:
an electrical system which operates above 12 volts;
provisions for plumbing;
heating;
and, any other standard feature/component adopted in the uniform standards code for RVs.
Trying to find out what " and, any other standard feature/component adopted in the uniform standards code for RVs." I can use to cover this aspect.
https://www.kdor.org/county/ctl/TRIn...alVehicles.pdf
Can anyone provide a link for these DOT requirements?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverickx50
Here are the DOT requirements as I understand them:
Motor Home means a multi-purpose vehicle with motive power that is designed to provide
temporary residential accommodations, as evidenced by the presence of at least four of the
following facilities:
a. Cooking - a small microwave is acceptable
b. Refrigeration or Ice Box - either a 12 volt, 110 volt or LP powered refrigerator is acceptable
c. Self-contained Toilet - a porta potti is acceptable
d. Heating and or Air Conditioning - factory heat or air is acceptable with separate sleeper berth
control
e. Potable Water Supply System including a Faucet and Sink
f. Separate 110-125 Volt Electrical Power Supply and or an LP Gas Supply - generator, inverter or
a shore power inlet is acceptable
Should be pretty easy to meet this and be legal
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01-17-2017, 07:24 AM
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#53
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 10
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Ohio is pretty simple. You go to the title office and ask for a "body change affidavit". On this for is lists the 4 requirements. You must specify exactly what you have by checking each box. The items you check must be "permanently mounted.
1. Facilities for cold food storage:
Check box for ice box or refrigerator
2. Facilities for cooking food:
Check box for range top or oven
3. Facilities for consumption of food:
Table with seating
4. Facilities for sleeping:
Bed
then you pay the fee for a "duplicate title" with the body change. Now you have a titled recreational vehicle / motorhome. Your title will not say assembled or home made. Under the "body" description it will say "mh" for motorhome.
License plates just as easy. Take your new title to the bmv and get your motorhome plates. Mine were under $100.
Insurance was not difficult or expensive. Progressive was the easiest to deal with. However i have westfield insurance for my personal auto and home....they were not interested in insuring for anything other than liability due to the difficulty in accessing a correct value.
Avoiding trouble with dot / scales. I still go through certain scales in some states. I have been chased down several times. You have to know the laws better than the guy pulling you over. I also keep a copy of the cdl training manual and the fmcsa regulations in the truck so i can quickly access the rules that allow me to ude the truck as i do. My truck still has the commercial truck appearance. I found in several states they expected it to be worded differently....therefore i was sure to put a vinyl decals on each side in 2" tall letters that reads:
"registered recreational vehicle"
"private coach"
"not for hire"
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05-16-2017, 02:43 PM
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#54
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 1
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Say GUSS01, couple quick questions for you. I just purchased a 2005 Sterling Acterra with a 96" Bentz sleeper and a 20' box, that I had the engine replaced in. It's now down at Bolt being gone thru, they're taking care of a number of issues with the heating/AC, etc, but I expected there to be some on a 12 year old, 1.1 million mile truck. I had actually purchased it in MI, and the seller charged me $300 to have it titled to me as an RV title (which I HAPPILY paid), and now have it titled here in MN as an RV.
Insurance wasn't too bad, a few back and forths between me, my agent and the Ins co, and they finally got it covered properly. Unfortunately, my tabs aren't nearly as inexpensive as yours, I was shocked when I was doing the reg/plates thing at the DMV, when they gave me the bill, and the line for plates/tabs was like $327. I asked her if this was just a one time thing for the initial plate reg deal, she said nope, being 33000 lbs, this is the plate fee for it every year. For something that is supposedly going to be driven in a somewhat limited fashion, it's almost 10x more than any other vehicle I have. Gotta love MN, eh?
The main reason for me writing here, is because once it's all done being worked on, and I go pick it up, my biggest long term concern while driving it is the 'hassle factor' you mentioned, the scale thing, being chased down, etc etc etc. I looked into having it painted to resemble one of those large 45' bus looking RV's, but was quoted almost $6000. I already have more then I had hoped to spend into this thing already, so for now I am going to have to just live with the faded paint and the FedEx label that is still showing down the sides, even though it was removed. But, I figure leaving it this will only increase the chances of me getting stopped.
Could you list out exactly what you carry to show them, the manuals/books/etc that have the relevant sections that apply to using this vehicle in a non-CDL manner, and could you also highlight them here? The shop that did the engine swap had removed every sticker indicating any DOT weights, registrations, etc, (as well as all of the placards all the way around it) and put in 2" letters "DOT approved/registered (not sure which) Recreational Vehicle" (which the first time I saw it made me chuckle, but reading your post now makes sense). That might help a little, but in the inevitable stops, I'd like to make it as quick, easy and painless as I can, so if I can have everything together in one place so I can just whip it out and hand it to him/her and quickly(?) be back on my way, that would be perfect. As it appears you've already had those experiences, and know just what is needed, if you could share them, I'm sure that there would be a number of us out here who would greatly appreciate it.
Oh, one last question about scales, being an RV, can I just ignore them all, or are there places where it might not really matter, but others that in the end would be better to just deal with it? Personally, I'd just prefer to skip them all together, but I'd also rather not wave a red flag in front of a charging bull, either. ;-) Thanks!
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07-06-2017, 10:45 AM
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#55
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: PORT BYRON
Posts: 2
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Insurance for Custom build RV
Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdswine
I had liability insurance on the Pete thru Farm Bureau and it was 1700 a year and when I change the truck to an RV I had to jump thru hoops just to get them to insure it because they said they had nothing to base it's worth on in case of a total loss.....it wouldn't enter into their computer. After submitting receipts to prove what I had in it they still weren't satisfied so they came out and took a bunch of pictures to send to the home office. Then they came back and said the truck is worth so much and the camper is worth so much on the market, they combined the two and came up with a figure pretty close so I agreed to it. The premium is 960 a year so that's not bad. I did check with some other insurance companies, most said they can't write a policy on an assembled vehicle. State Farm gave me a real good price of 580 per year, but that was only if I had my home insured with them and that premium would have been higher on my home owners. It wouldn't be as much fun if was easy huh.
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We are new to this site. Trying to get information on insurance for our custom build RV. When we say "custom" we mean we built it. Our insurance agent has hit many dead ends trying to get an insurance company to even consider insuring it. We have not yet changed registration and title, but have the information to do so in Illinois, where we reside. This will be our RV and NOT used for commercial. We need some leads on insurance companies...any suggestions?
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08-10-2018, 05:31 PM
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#56
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Rochester
Posts: 1
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Hello,
Just thought I would share some information on Sleeper/Truck to RV conversion requirements of New York State. Also info on the R endorsement 30 day permit.
15 CRR-NY 4.2 states the following: "15 CRR-NY 4.2
15 CRR-NY 4.2
4.2 Prohibition against use of learners' permits on certain highways.
No person holding a learner's permit shall operate or drive a motor vehicle on any street or highway as set forth in this section.
(a) Restricted highways in New York City.
(1) Any street located within a park.
(2) All bridges and tunnels under the jurisdiction of the Triborough Bridge and Tunnel Authority.
(b) Restricted highways in Westchester County.
(1) Hutchinson River Parkway.
(2) Cross County Parkway.
(3) Saw Mill River Parkway.
(4) Taconic State Parkway.
CROSS REFERENCES:
Drivers' licenses and learners' permits, Vehicle and Traffic Law § 501.
RESEARCH REFERENCES AND PRACTICE AIDS:
7A Am Jur 2d, Automobile and Highway Traffic §§ 96---103, 108.
7 Am Jur 2d, Automobiles and Other Vehicles § 82.
15 CRR-NY 4.2
Current through April 30, 2018"
And:
15 CRR-NY 106.3
106.3 Passenger registration.
<snipped for brevity>
(d) Modified van or passenger van.
A van with at least one seat or seat fittings or camping equipment behind the driver and at least one rear side window. This equipment must be permanently installed. Camping equipment means that a bed, stove or refrigerator must always be in the vehicle. Any use of the van without this equipment requires the vehicle to be registered as a commercial vehicle.
(e) Motor home.
A self-propelled vehicle designed as a travelling place of abode. To qualify as a motor home, a vehicle must have at least four of the following facilities:
(1) cooking with an on-board power source;
(2) a gas or electric refrigerator;
(3) a toilet with exterior evacuation;
(4) heating or air conditioning or both from an on-board power source separate from the vehicle engine;
(5) a potable water supply system including a faucet, sink and a water tank with an exterior service connection; and
(6) a 110-125 volt power supply separate from the vehicle engine.
(f) Specialized vehicle.
A motor vehicle including a van or truck with a gross weight under seven thousand pounds, regardless of seating or window arrangements, which is equipped or modified with a powered lift or ramp or containing any other physical device or alteration for the purpose of accommodating a wheelchair or permitting access of a wheelchair-bound person, and which is intended to be used for the transportation of a disabled person or persons confined to a wheelchair.
(g) Station wagon.
An enclosed vehicle with folding seats, rear side windows and no trunk, usable for both passenger and delivery purposes.
15 CRR-NY 106.3
Current through April 30, 2018
So you need items 1,2,4 and 6 which can be fulfilled with a Frame rail mounted APU Microwave Refrigerator and A/C you will still have room for your sleeping bunk too.
Yes you can drive your "Motor home" with the R permit without having someone with you with the proper license, except for those highways indicated above.
Good luck and Happy Trails,
Dave
All the above can be found here: https://govt.westlaw.com/nycrr/Brows...ta=(sc.Default)
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