Seal between Cab and Box

[joey]

Hello everyone I hope I can get a response. I've been on this site for the last 3 months but for some reason the responses seem to be dwindling and that is unfortunate, there is great information on this site! My problem is the gasket between the cab and the box I'm building. Some tell me the air-ride must come off my cab, that there are no seals or gaskets out there that can withstand the 2-3 inch movement between it and the box. Others tell me someone produces a custom accordian-like gasket made just for that, to allow for the air-ride cab. As one might guess, I'm not getting any help from Renegade, Wildside, you name it. Can anyone help me?!?!?!

Thank you,
Joey

[Camping Dutchman]

the lack of responses was due to the forum being closed...

[joey]

Thanks for the update. I saw I had one response and I was excited, maybe I could finally get some help from this site, but once again I was let down.

[DrFun]

I have a motorhome conversion on a 2006 Freightliner M2-106. The cab air ride is fully operational and, as you mentioned, there's an accordian seal between the cab and the coach.

The type of seal that you'll need depends on how the cutouts in the cab and coach are configured. A Google search revealed some possibilities:
All-Rite
Elasto Proxy

You might also get some info from the manufacturer of my conversion, Transport Designs.

Hope this gets you started.

[Camping Dutchman]

You have to give it time, a lot of guys are jus trealizing it's back and not everyone logs in daily

[joey]

Thank you much DrFun, I've emailed Transport Designs and Steve Mattie is very helpful, but to no surprise, I have not been able to get the name of the company that makes his boots.

To Camping Dutchman, I apologize for the sarcasm in my last reply, I will give it time. I have a truck, a floorplan, and a great group of guys who are highly motivated, but have never even thought about building a motorhome to go racing. I am just in need of a little guidance. There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum and from past posts, it doesn't seem like anyone will hold back information to help a guy out. Thank you

[Warpath]

joey,

This subject comes up a ton, and I know we all have given out numerous suggestions on who might be able to give you that info. Unfortunately, all the guys who have asked never came back with the answer, and that is a shame.

All I can suggest is asking companies who use them and hopefully you get lucky with someone willing to divulge the answer. Please stop back and let us know if you do find that company.

Here are some to try

Double Eagle sleepers --> http://www.doubleeagleind.com

ICT --> http://www.trucksleeper.com/

AA Sleepers --> http://www.aatrucksleeper.com/index.html

[Bob E]

The seal you're refering to is the same the that trucks with add-on sleepers have been using for years. I think the sites listed above will get you what you want.
As for the air ride,...I bolted mine up solid.
With the frame stretched, I found the ride to be just fine,...no need for air ride. Also,...if you were to leave it in,...you will need to plan for some extra clearance above the cab roof to prevent interference with the bottom of the overhang.

[Blue Skies]

Originally posted by joey:
My problem is the gasket between the cab and the box I'm building. Some tell me the air-ride must come off my cab, that there are no seals or gaskets out there that can withstand the 2-3 inch movement between it and the box. Others tell me someone produces a custom accordian-like gasket made just for that, to allow for the air-ride cab. As one might guess, I'm not getting any help from Renegade, Wildside, you name it. Can anyone help me?!?!?!
Joey

Randy Butler of Butler Motorcoach might have some ideas.
He had a phone number of 920-386-4633 on this site but I don't know that still works.

[joey]

Thanks a lot for the replies gentlemen I really appreciate it. After talking with quite a few people, I believe I am going to go without the air-ride cab. I spoke with a local motorhome/toterhome builder here in Wisconsin. He has been around the business for years and has worked on/with many other builders. He says the best thing to do is to bolt the cab to the box and make it one solid unit. The pivot point will be in the front of the cab as usual, and the rear suspension is what takes the movement of the truck from the pivot point all the way back. All he uses is a calk tape between the two and then caulks around the cab-to-box joint once again. It sounds easy enough, plus I'll gain more length by leaving out a 3-8" gasket plus, like Bob E said, I will not have to worry about leaving much room above the cab. What do you guys think of this?

Thanks
Joey

[vapoppa]

joey-- that's the way my kingsley was done--- 4 years and 56,000 miles ago. it's worked great. we've been to fairbanks and lots of other places. i really don't see any down sides to doing it this way. good luck. mase

[RBlack]

I called Indiana Truck Parts and they sent me a kit and told me how to hook down their boot. I haven't put the foam and wrapped it with vinyl yet, but it hasn't leaked a bit. I had to cut down the boot from what they sent me and then I used some flat bar aluminum and self taping screws to help hold it in place. The kit if I remember right was around $100.

Mine is an airride freightliner FLD120 and I left the sleeper on and put captains chairs int the sleeper. 1 year and 10000 miles. No problems.

Rich

[Doc Weaver]

Greetings,
I have been reading posts as a guest for some time, but never had an informed thing to say. hopefully, I know have something to add. I just bought accordion seal from http://www.uni-grip.com/ and they were very helpful, let alone inexpensive. They have multiple widths and sell it by the foot.

Someone had said earlier that no one ever responded after getting advice through the forum, so I figured I would add my 2 cents.

By the way, Great forum. I just bought the truck (FL60 w/ 24' box) and now I'm headed for a whole lot of work.

Thanks,

Doc Weaver

[Radman]

Doc,
It's a whole lota work but dont forget about the whole lot of fun and satisfaction too.

Enjoy the project...we sure are

Jim

[Doc Weaver]

I received the seal from Uni-grip and I'm impressed. It will compress to 2" and expand to 7". It has a built in "U" clip on both sides that clips to the sheet metal. Good thickness and still very pliable. Shipped to me for less than one hundred dollars. not bad at all

Doc Weaver