Roof Coating

[Oakland Mike]

Does someone have any suggestions for a roof coating/waterproofing? I know they have some at the RV store, but thought I might ask to see if there is anything else out there that will do the job (or maybe a better job).

Thanks,
Mike

[WERA]

My Showhauler has an aluminum roof sealed with caulk at the edges and where stuff is mounted. My Renegade trailer uses the FRP they use on the walls.

I'd say for building your own just use aluminum if you can get a sheet the size of the entire roof then cut what few holes you need.

[Oakland Mike]

I guess I should have given a little more info. I have a 45foot trailer that I am using to load my drag bikes and putting in living quarters. The previous owner put some diamond plate on top and was going to use it as an observation deck. The roof leaks I think from the pop rivets that he used to secure the plate to the roof. So I was looking for what the best type of (paint like) material to use to coat over the rivets and any other seams/cracks that might be up there. I was going to use that snow roof stuff that they put on mobile homes, but thought I would check with the knowlegable membership here.

Mike

[SKP46015]

Try this...

Durabak

[Wick]

I should have responded to this a long time ago. We use a material called Manis Bond on any of our trailer roof repairs. It comes in a gallon can similar to a paint can and we use a paint brush to apply it. You can put it on a seam or repair even if there is standing water. The stuff works great and lasts foreever. All of the semi-trailer manufacturers use it in the build process.
Wick

[Oakland Mike]

ok, thanks guys. I knew someone would have an answer.

Wick, I can't seem to find any info on Manis Bond. Where can I get it? Should I just check with my local trailer repair shop?

Thanks

[Gary Atsma]

Oakland Mike-
The Durabak product mentioned above gave me an idea- Why not use a DIY bed-liner product (roll-on or brush-on) for your roof. Not only waterproof and durable, but somewhat skid- or slip-resistant as well. Maybe gonna hafta use it on my in-the-planning-stages RV roof. Too cool!

[Travis Q]

I've got an EPDM roof ordered for our FLD120 conversion, should be here in the next couple days. From the research I have done, it looks like the EPDM may be the way to go for a DIY tpe installation. I'll take pictures and make notes as I install the roof next week, and let you all know how it goes and what the finished product looks like! I have also seen liquid-form EPDM that can be "poured" on, which looks to me like a good way to fix the cracks that you are describing, Mike.

Travis

[GypsyProgrammer]

I've got a rubber roof for my class C. But it's still rolled up in my garage waiting to be installed. The aluminum roof leaked, so I have to replace some of the roof framing... (ugh) My little 1 ton has turned into a test bed for the big RV. But from an installation perspective, a rubber roof will be a lot easier for a DIYer to do. If you are planning on using your roof as a platform or for luggage, I'd want to research it some. If something pokes a hole in the aluminum, you will probably see the dent. I'm not sure how visible a puncture in the rubber will be. Cost wise it was pretty reasonable.

[KAYE RIVERCITY]

....few other factors: 1.0 glueing it down requires a highly flanniable glue[stoners love it!]....do it outside and give yourself an easy out....not just jumping or falling off the trailer. 2.0 do a good job glueing-or it will flap and crack/split open very soon. 3.0 get help-the damn stuff [.40]is heavy and slippery. 4.0 it will shrink in the sunlite-so don't pull it too tight or it rips in time. 5.0 EDPM is flannible-watch for fireworks/sparks/campfires/lightening around it. 6.0 Fold it like you are folding up a package-don't cut if possible. 7.0 use twice as much glue as recommended. 8.0 keep it clean-no dust or it won't stick even to dusty shoe prints. 9.0 Our sister company does not use it any more-too many redues and comebacks-they only use standing seam aluminum/steel or single sheet in a big roll with 12" overlap.......they do not do trailers/campers/outbuildings anymore. 10.0 If air gets under it it will blow up like a circus tent/large black breast.....geofkaye

[KAYE RIVERCITY]

.....if I had to do what you are doing....I'd use some "Peal and Seal" first-one layer 48" wide-overlapped from back to front-then the EDPM glued to the aluminum side....the reason for it is because I have had to pay for some of those comebacks after we dropped that line of insurance......geofkaye