petrel-TC
Senior Member
It really depends on how the lights you selected are set up and what condition the existing wiring is in.
I doubt you could find an entire plug and play harness for a dry box. If there is already a hot wire, I'd just install a ground, starting at the plug (so it can be connected to truck ground and also grounded to the trailer frame), then just install a dropper for each light in the run, as you go along.
I doubt you could find an entire plug and play harness for a dry box. If there is already a hot wire, I'd just install a ground, starting at the plug (so it can be connected to truck ground and also grounded to the trailer frame), then just install a dropper for each light in the run, as you go along.
petrel-TC
Senior Member
https://seabeemagazine.navylive.dod...50A-Construction-Mechanic-Advanced-Part-4.pdf
This has a good wiring diagram. I apologize if I made this confusing. That is not the nature of the project, that is my inability to communicate clearly. Hope the link helps.
This has a good wiring diagram. I apologize if I made this confusing. That is not the nature of the project, that is my inability to communicate clearly. Hope the link helps.
I’m not going to lie....I have no idea what you are asking.
The chicken lights will run off of the truck battery. What I am seeing so far is that I will run brand new two wire (one hot and one ground).
For my interior lights and outlets to run my refrigerator and outlets I wired it just like a house. I used an RV 50 amp cord and wired right into the main breaker on panel, just like I would at home. From each breaker I ran to to each appliance or outlet. I can plug into any normal outlet, through an adapter or plug into my generator.
The chicken lights will run off of the truck battery. What I am seeing so far is that I will run brand new two wire (one hot and one ground).
For my interior lights and outlets to run my refrigerator and outlets I wired it just like a house. I used an RV 50 amp cord and wired right into the main breaker on panel, just like I would at home. From each breaker I ran to to each appliance or outlet. I can plug into any normal outlet, through an adapter or plug into my generator.
In simple terms don't use solid wire that is used in homes to wire the interior and such, it will break over time with vibrations in the rig and cause a fire or short out. Use stranded wire such as you find in vehicles and use marine stranded wire if possible for best results.
On problem I have is that my side door locks from the outside. I need to have at least one escape route towards the front in case of fire. Previously I would have had to escape through the rear doors or leave the side door open all night.
So I decided to build a door behind the trailer door that I could lock. Not completely finished yet but roughed I’m anyway.
So I decided to build a door behind the trailer door that I could lock. Not completely finished yet but roughed I’m anyway.
Attachments
Weldman has a good point on marine wiring. I have noted some car manufacturers used to use a much more rubbery insulation on all the under vehicle wiring. I assume it is better at protecting from water, punctures, and crud. Marine wiring for exposed areas and non solid braided/strand wire for interior spaces might save some money.
I have no idea how much more expensive marine wire is. I do know it's a tough environment full of owners with more money than your average Joe Sixpack building a toterhome. Me included. [emoji481][emoji1531]
I have no idea how much more expensive marine wire is. I do know it's a tough environment full of owners with more money than your average Joe Sixpack building a toterhome. Me included. [emoji481][emoji1531]
Let's put it this way, for a foot of 4/0 marine wiring it's $13 a foot and I have about 20 feet in just the PV system
Nope and neither is the system it goes to. All together on 1.2 kw @ 24V with 440 AH of storage it ran $5k and that's me building the system myself. Unlike 99% of RV'ers with solar I can move my panels up to 50' from the rig to catch sunlight in partly shaded campgrounds. And I think I found a way to put 600 more watts on
Haven't heard from you in a year, good to hear Covid-19 didn't get you. Nice looking it's moving around now, spend any nights anywhere in it yet?
Has it really been a year?
COVID didn’t take me, still here so far.
Been to the races quite a bit and the furthest we went so far is Memphis. Will be in Oklahoma City for a few weeks over thanksgiving this year.
How have you been?
COVID didn’t take me, still here so far.
Been to the races quite a bit and the furthest we went so far is Memphis. Will be in Oklahoma City for a few weeks over thanksgiving this year.
How have you been?
Yep on the 6th would be a year, well we have been to Washington state again, finally moved last bit of our stuff here, bought another 20 acres, a couple backhoes working on a pole barn from drill stem pipe and few other odds and ends.
Our rig decided on our last journey back from Washington state as it left out the driveway to break a rear axle. So we limped it 1200 miles home making sure to not make any turns unless it was to get off freeway for fuel once.
Guess it's time to move on to a rig with air brakes single not tandem axle, got another semi with tandem axle air but wouldn't work for this rig.
How have races been, win any?
East of the River you can’t get anyone to work so I hope you are building that pole barn by yourself?
Not sure I would know what to do if I broke an axle on the road. Bet that was pretty nerve racking trip! Does that mean another build in the future?
I don’t race, just a spectator.
Not sure I would know what to do if I broke an axle on the road. Bet that was pretty nerve racking trip! Does that mean another build in the future?
I don’t race, just a spectator.
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