Help build my new coach

[fastlap]

I am strating to plan the new unit !
I already know that I will not have one place do all the work this time !
as I look at different units I see they all have their good points and they all have their bad !
I am going to break it up into segments
1 frame & fabricating
2 interior
3 exterior(skin)
4 electrical
5 exterior trim
these are the areas that I find big differences in from company to company!
what company would you guys use for each segment ? I spend as much time under my truck as I do in it so that stuff has to be flawless !

We race dirt track , which means that we are slogging trough the calcium filled mud and muck on a weekly basis ! How the underneath if put together and designed is as important to me as the rest ! any opinions ?????

[vapoppa]

couple of thoughts---- one, turn the black and grey tanks up on edge an place them between the frame and drive shaft-- saves space and they are accessable, two, consider hydro hot aqua hot heat the water with the motor and the heat is clean and the fuel is the diesel from the coach tank, three, kingsley is offering partial builds, four, more h.p. and more gears, five, water tank in the very rear between the frame rails under the floor, six,use a 26,000 rear more capacity is never bad, specialy with air ride. 'guess i'll pause now,---- mase

[Gary Atsma]

Mase-
This is all VERY good info- I've even printed out your post for future reference for "The Future Rig". You have verbalized very concisely how to arrange the major chassis-mounted coach components.
The chassis is the foundation of any good conversion, and this will help lay out a good foundation.
Thank you, Mase!

[vapoppa]

you're welcome,,,,,, careful,---- i'll have to get a bigger cap---- mase

[Warpath]

Hey fastlap, who's rig do you have now?

I know one of your concerns is the underside. I really don't think rust proofing works very well on these rigs. I would think having the underside frame structure painted would be far better. But it would have to be done professionally. They put a light coating of oil on the rails when shipped and if not prepped right, that paint is not going to take.

When I think about this, it seems you get good and bad with each answer. And since I have not owned a NRC, Trendsetter, Kingsley or other, nor have I looked at them up close I am not going to try and comment on them.

I do like Renegades FRP smooth side exterior. Super strong super durable. But I wonder about the interior support when you are hanging cabinets and such. (No steel to screw into) My concern with FRP is what if just one screw loosens on the exterior and water starts to get in behind the fiberglass. I don't know how or what they use to water proof that part of the construction. It may not be a concern, but I just don't know.

I love Show Hauler's storage bay doors. They use a single slam shut latch which makes it very nice to open and close. Also their interior is top notch as far as quality and construction.

Since I am a motorhomer I would like to see more system controls. Show Hauler definitely keeps it simple in this area which is probably a good thing, but I like displays to tell me what is going on.

Boy I think it is going to be hard to get most of these companies to do just a partial part of the work. I doubt any of them would want to put a interior in another mfg'ers box.

Keep us posted!

[fastlap]

Paint would have been nice I consider paint to be rustproofing !
Had I known that the frame work super structure did not get painted I would have not went with the conversion ! I assumed & I was wrong! My fault
I am between butler (if he has the time ) and wildside,&5150 for the frame work ! Who else should I consider ?

[KAYE RIVERCITY]

....there are two kinda of rustproofing one has a parafien base made by Kendell-Ziebart-and a spray can made by Amsoil which works really well....There is another kind made by Rust-Oleum called Coal Tar Epoxy and it is rolled or sprayed on the bottom of ships and barges to keep rust and marine growth to a minimum.....what you got to do with that stuff is sandblast the metal first and then apply to a clean surface....the stuff is toxic as hell-kinda like death in a can -but will last forever on the bottom of vehicles.....we used to charge $12.00 sq ft prep and 2X coats.....underwater-on shoals and reef it will last at least 4-5 years in saltwater or freshwater...with the parafeinn based materials anyone can do it with a spayer or roller and brush or you can have Ziebart do it for $8.00 a sq ft....it will last for a year or so and then you have to have it checked to keep up your warranty.....I used it for years on my trucks -never had a rust through....Now I have my own sprayer and I use Ken-coat[what the US GOV uses for their army trucks made at S&S in Texas...A $120 dollar barrel does 6 cars and 5 P/U's I redue them every 3 years myself/or one of my employees does it if I can't work that day......geofkaye