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04-03-2011, 05:58 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Choctaw,Okla
Posts: 174
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Installing the Box
Installed the box on the truck for the last time today. Probably not the best day for it with winds gusting over 30 mph. Had to get the DW out to hold onto it while I backed the truck under it. Minor clearance problem between the muffler guards and the box corners. Easy fix with some adjustments. Progress none the less!
MMM
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04-03-2011, 08:06 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Grafton
Posts: 285
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Nice job. Nice pictures. Keep us posted.
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Started looking for 379 Peterbilt TC, 24' to 30' box, bumper pull--but ended up w/1999 Liberty Coach conversion of 45' Prevost XLV bus. 1,000sf heated/AC'd race shop w/dump station, 50amp shore pwr where bus parks, 3 NASCAR/ARCA race cars & 26' Bravo trailer.
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04-04-2011, 09:33 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,819
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x2! Love that pic of your wife holding it up so you can back in.
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'03 Freightliner FL112, 295" wheel base, with '03 United Specialties 26' living quarters, single screw, Cat C12 430 h/p 1650 torque, Eaton 10speed , 3.42 rear axle ratio
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05-18-2011, 07:11 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Choctaw,Okla
Posts: 174
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Interior
Interior walls installed and insulated. Shower and sink drain lines installed. Running water lines and electrical currently. Has anyone used a tankless electric water heater? I bought one thinking that would work for a sink and shower however I am having second thoughts. I have room for a 6 gal electric. What are your thoughts? Also, a friend gave me a almost new Winegard SDI in motion satelitte. He replaced it because it didn't do HD on Direct TV. I think I can live without HD at that price. Is there anything I need to know about hooking it up? I have the install manual,looks pretty straight forward. As always,any and all input is appreciated.
(Kenn, tried to send an email and pic's but they were returned. Will try again later)
Michael
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09-03-2011, 12:38 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: se michigan
Posts: 25
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water heater
I have a tankless waterheater in the house and absolutely love it, my concerns in a mobile application would be will you have enough water flow to trigger the burner and also fuel consumption, when the burner lights up it's a blowtorch. The real savings is that it doesn't hold water @ temperature 24/7, you will have to look at your lifestyle/usage/needs to make a decision, if it's 1 or 2 people turning on the 6 gal in the morning for dishes and showers might be the answer, on the otherhand if you have an army of people to run thru the shower the tankless is the way to go.
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09-07-2011, 01:00 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 120
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Hey Shorts, I think he is asking about an electric tankless water heater. I'm sure the electric tankless will work if you have anough juice to run it. Isn't the wattage requirement pretty high for these? Think about the places you will be traveling to. Will there be enough power avaialble?
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AndyG
1989 FLD120 with 2000 NRC conversion
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09-07-2011, 02:08 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: se michigan
Posts: 25
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andy
the electric heaters use the same principal of a monster burner, only it's 3 or 4 chambers with seperate elements in series so you get a continous temp rise as the water flows. If your electric heater required 30 or 50 amp dedicated service you would definately be in trouble in a RV. The only saving grace might be that your incoming /ambient water temp from the fresh tank might not require as much of a temp rise/increase to get where your hot water is hot - 140f. Most instant heaters are rated/speced by flow/gpm, temp rise/degf and energy use either btu or watts/amps. I would think that in a mobile application that a LP or diesel fired unit would be the right choice with the diesel burner having some sort of electrical requirement for the burner to operate while the LP unit could be entirly stand alone.
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09-07-2011, 02:32 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 120
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I agree with you Shorts. If you want tankless it will need to be diesel or LP. FWIW I have a 6gal electric water heater (1300w I think) in my toter and I like it fine. It gets hot in about 15-20 minutes and that is good enough for me.
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AndyG
1989 FLD120 with 2000 NRC conversion
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09-12-2011, 04:55 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5
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Did you put anything under the plywood floor to keep water/salt spray off of it ? I'm just in the design stage of mine . Also what are the measurements of the bottom boxes.
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09-12-2011, 08:51 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Choctaw,Okla
Posts: 174
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Thanks everyone for your input. I tested the tankless 1500 watt water heater. I do not think it will be adequate for a shower,even with a low flow showerhead. I have now installed a 6 gal electric. Takes more space but I think I will be more satisfied with the output.
As for the plywood floor, I glued .030 alum sheets to the bottom of the plywood to protect it from the elements.
Progress has been at a standstill the last couple of months. Jumped off a ladder and broke my foot. Should be able to resume work in the next couple of weeks. Thanks again for the input. MMM
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09-12-2011, 09:03 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Choctaw,Okla
Posts: 174
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799, I missed your question on the boxes. The driver side box is 6 feet long, 27 inches tall 29 inches deep. The passenger side is 5.5 feet long, 27 inches tall, 29 inches deep. The generator is actually not attached to the box. It is attached to the truck frame only to reduce vibration that could be transmitted to the box which is mounted on rubber mounts. MMM
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06-13-2012, 04:44 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Charlotte, Michigan
Posts: 3
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Looks Great mmmc101 I'm hoping you are better by now? How are you progressing? I'm just now thinking of starting a project like yours. I'd love to see some more pictures.
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06-13-2012, 09:33 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Choctaw,Okla
Posts: 174
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Kurt,
Haven't worked on it the last few weeks. Real work keeps getting in the way. I am ready to install the skin on the sides and roof. Once those are in place I will start installing the slideouts. I'll post more pictures soon I hope. thanks Michael
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06-14-2012, 06:10 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Charlotte, Michigan
Posts: 3
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Michael,
Must be the foot is okay.?? Glad to hear that. Work, is good it helps us pay for these projects. Look forward to the pics of progress....I'd come lend a hand but I'm in Michigan and my boss might have something to say about it.
I have a 2000 W900B with a car hauler head rack on it. I'm in the process of removing it. The truck has a 50 inch sleeper not sure what to do yet. That's why I'm interested in what you are doing. Keep me posted.
Thanks Kurt
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07-11-2012, 02:53 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
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How are you doing on your box, it should be done by now, Il bet, just pulled in so forgive me if its done on another thread,but you do great work. I want to build something like that for my pete, what are you planning on for your outside skin.....
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07-12-2012, 11:56 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Choctaw,Okla
Posts: 174
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Haven't had time recently to work on the toter. Real job keeps getting in the way. The outside skin is .040 alum riveted on using shaveable rivets. I have the rear and front skin and entry door installed and am starting on the side skins. Once that is completed I will fabricate and install the two slideouts. My goal was to have it completed,tested and debugged by 2013 when my wife retires so I haven't been in any hurry. Estimate your time to complete and double it !! I'll post more photos soon I hope. MMM
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12-26-2012, 04:34 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Choctaw,Okla
Posts: 174
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Finally found some time to work on the toter. Have three sides covered. Awaiting rivet shipment to finish the last side. Installed 3/4" plywood on the roof after insulating. Ready for one piece alum roof. Currently building the lower access door frames from 1" square tubing. The doors will be covered with polished 1/8" alum deck plate. Progress!
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12-27-2012, 02:35 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Willamina Or
Posts: 277
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It looks GREAT!!. I like the back-up lights on the back they should work good. I am waiting on permits to put up a carport to protect the truck from the weather. It will be at least two months because I live on a creek and my property is in the flood plane. I will be putting the truck outside in the next few weeks after protecting it from the rain and snow. Keep the pictures coming.
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12-30-2012, 02:08 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Choctaw,Okla
Posts: 174
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Thanks Kenn. Finally got caught up on outside jobs and plan on spending the winter working on the toter.
Been following your build along and it's really looking good. Great craftsmanship!
I don't envy you working on it outside though. My old bones don't like the cold/heat.
Shame you don't live a little closer, I have room for it in my shop. MMM
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12-31-2012, 01:18 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Tomball
Posts: 1,414
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im curious - did you go electric only on the water heater ?
personally (now having fixed blown reset/fuse) - i like the 6 gallon, lp/electric...hot water no matter what & i dont need to run the generator just to heat the water.
short of what seems like an ANNUAL anode change out the thing is low maintenance and it seems to hold the heat well and provide enough hot water for at least 3 or 4 showers in a row.
my routine generally is to turn on the water heater the morning we leave, heat the water as we're loading up & then turn it off (this way we have hot water on the road if we need it, w/out running the generator, if we dont need too otherwise).
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Don R.
'04 Haulmark (M42386) 42', 2 slide, 10kw - Pictures
'04 F350 CrewCab Longbed 4x4, 50g aux tank & gear vendors dbl over
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